Ignore cardealer maintenance calls.

[Von Paulus]

The carmarket is depressed,fewer and fewer new cars are being sold.
In Holland,most cardealers operate around zero percent profitmargin.
A 50 percent shakeout is being expected.

In this position,tendency is to focus on maintenance calls,extra springtime inspections,winter inspections etc.
This will give cardealers at least some income,they think.

Most cardealers would like you to bring your car for a general inspection once a year,even if you have not yet reached the milage as prescribed in your maintenancemanual.
For lowmilers this is a moneydrain i reject.
I will maintain the milage as per instructionbook and will only visit a garage when the time is right.

Apart from anything else,another trend is to bring the car to a neutral garage,not connected to a specific make,cutting the costs almost in half.
Neutral garages do not have the overheadcosts of the well known brandnames.

Do you agree?

[Chad]

In the US most states (the states decide on this matter) require you to have your vehicle inspected once a year no matter what.

[Von Paulus]

In Holland compulsory safety inspection for a new car in the 3rd year,thence every two years.
This safety inspection has nothing to do with the technical condition of the engine.
Hence it pays to visit a garage for engine maintenance when the milage has been reached.
For older cars it makes sense to combine the safety inspection with the planned maintenance on the same day.
A government controlled safety inspection involves tyres,brakes,steering gear,lights,safety belts.

[henrik]

@Chad - I think he meant "inspections" in the car dealerships, not the compulsory official kind.

AFAIK in most cases you are only required to stick to the dealership's maintenance schedule if you want to keep your warranty. If your car is older than that and if you know what you're doing, "stretching" the periods between maintenance visits may make a lot of sense. I also drive a lot less in a year than the average (i.e. than the maintenance schedule assumes), so I play creative with visits to the mechanic.

[enigmaT120]

I do all my own work. No inspections where I live, though there are emissions checks in Oregon's metro areas.

[Chad]

@Chad - I think he meant "inspections" in the car dealerships, not the compulsory official kind.

I understood. That's where US government inspections occur at the dealership or local mechanic.

[RealPerson]

Actually, this brings up a good question. Aside for required emission inspections, there is a manufacturer's schedule for maintenance of the vehicle. Certainly, oil changes are essential. But what about the other stuff? There are all these things that are supposed to get done at major maintenance visits, making some of these very costly. How do you know which ones are really needed? How do you pick and choose the essential items and remove the fluff?

I know I really shouldn't own a car! If I have one I should hardly drive it, and be able to do all the repairs. but it just isn't like that. So given my situation, how do you choose? (I hope I am not derailing this thread. Jacob please feel free to move my post if it derails the tread).

[Dragline]

I try to do the minimum and use the local garage whenever possible and I can't fix it myself.

One thing I have found very useful to have is a code reader -- something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-Poc ... ode+reader

When an idiot light goes on, you can plug it in under the dash and find out what it is; more importantly, you can usually turn off the idiot light with it. It usually pays for itself in a couple uses, and often times the problem is fixable with something simple and stupid, like buying a new gas cap, etc.

On RP's question, if you have a trusted mechanic that changes the oil, you can usually ask them to look at it when they are doing that. A lot of it depends on where you live, though and whether its cold, hot, dusty, etc.

[KevinW]

Certainly, oil changes are essential. But what about the other stuff? There are all these things that are supposed to get done at major maintenance visits, making some of these very costly. How do you know which ones are really needed? How do you pick and choose the essential items and remove the fluff?

As a rule, if the manufacturer says a service item is necessary, then it really is necessary under typical driving conditions.

Fluids break down, rubber dries up, wires corrode, filters clog, and so on. Entropy. Fact of life.

The "under typical driving conditions" proviso means that an informed mechanic might be able to ascertain that specific conditions make specific tasks less necessary. For example if you know you are in a low-dust environment you could change air filters less frequently. But preventive maintenance is cheaper than repairing broken parts, so unless you are very sure about this it is probably more economical to do all the the scheduled maintenance.

Luxury cars have a lot more wear parts and consumables, so avoiding them helps a lot.

As you said though, the best answer is to not have a car.

[George the original one]

@Chad - I think he meant "inspections" in the car dealerships, not the compulsory official kind.

I understood. That's where US government inspections occur at the dealership or local mechanic.

Emissions inspections in Oregon occur in government facilities. No safety inspection.

[RealPerson]

For example timing belt replacement at x miles. Is seriously expensive maintenance like that really required?

[Dragline]

That one, probably yes. That thing breaks and your motor is probably dead. But this can be checked with a timing light: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zyjyVUoe6c

[KevinW]

Dragline's right, if you have an interference engine (very common) and the timing belt breaks (remember it's made of rubber) the engine is ruined.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_engine

[Chad]

@George
Interesting. Seems like a good way to make it more expensive. I don't see why the government would have to do it.

@RealPerson and Dragline
I had a Jeep Cherokee for over 13 years. Never changed the belt once. I'm not sure this needs to be checked by a professional. Maybe a cursory check by yourself every year, but no need to pay anyone.

[George the original one]

In Oregon, emissions testing is like an assembly line. They do one job and do it quickly. Any waiting beyond the 5 minute test you incur is due to people not planning to avoid long weekend lines, forgetting their paperwork, forgetting their checkbook, etc. $21 in Portland area, $10 in Rogue Valley (simpler test down there).

[Chad]

Not too bad then.

[workathome]

Michigan has no testing! I also seem to encounter really stinky cars every time I drive.

[enigmaT120]

Chad, did your Cherokee have a timing belt, or a chain? I was happy to learn my '04 Insight has a timing chain. One less tedious job to do.

I recently spent the better part of two days changing the timing belt in my wife's 2000 Elantra wagon. Man I hate that car. But I'll be retired before I ever have to do that job again!

[ArkTinkerer]

I drive much older vehicles and do almost all my own work.

Fluids can go bad over time and some of those fluids are NOT looked at in the typical checks except by the dealers.
With a view toward age rather than miles my suggestions are:

Radiator fluid--has anti corrosion and lubricants for the water pump. Can be tested with a cheap thing that looks like an eyedropper you get from the auto parts store.

Oil--Run your engine up to temp and keep it there for a while (30 minutes?) at least once a month. Boils off the water that condenses in the engine. Short run around town once a month won't do it. Oil change at least every other year even with very low mileage. This last is just a WAG (Wild A** Guess). Maybe someone can find a real study to back it up.

Rubber hoses/belts: These depend a lot on where you live. Desert temps are very hard on rubber. Most hoses and belts should be replaced at least every 5 years. Wipers when they are dried out. Belts if you see any cracks or glazing or every 5 years.

Tires if you see any cracking on sidewalls. Manufacturers say if tire has been inflated for 6 years age can be a problem.

Timing belts: Depends on vehicles. Rubber ones see the item about belts above. Chains, mileage and check for wear. If you have an interference engine (valves that hit the cylinders if the belt breaks) you might take more care. I have an old Ford Explorer that has !3! timing belts including one at the back. Not gonna replace them. When they go, I'll junk the vehicle. Even doing my own work its not worth the cost or the labor.

Brake fluid--safety issue even if (maybe especially if!) you don't use your vehicle much and drive it very gently. This fluid absorbs water and becomes acidic. This is one of those things that people seldom change. I flush and replace mine every 2-3 years. Might not mater up north where the salt is gonna eat your brake lines anyway. Here in the south where its wet all the time but we don't get much salt it maters. Not sure about out west--so dry there it may not matter.

Brake pads/Discs--based on thickness. Some shops will tell you "You only have 10% left!". If 10% is 6000 miles of gentle driving I'd suggest you drive until a wheel squeals when brakes are applied. You then need to get it fixed ASAP but if you don't drive much that may be a few years!

Air Filter--depends on where I go. Offroad--I at least clean it that week. Regular driving--check at least once a year. If you watch your mileage this is one of the first things to check if mileage goes down.

[ArkTinkerer]

Oh--I do take a grease gun and lube the chasis at least once a year.

Automatic transmission fluid--multiple schools of thought on this--on old vehicles the scuttlebutt is that replacing it on a working transmission does more harm than good. My personal rule is if it is brown or smells burnt, the tranny is gonna go anyway so just plan to replace or rebuild it now. Other than that, keep it at the proper level. This may not be a great rule for some of the newer transmissions.