Moronic Ethernet Cable Question for Home Office Setup

[Hristo Botev]

So, I work out of a camper trailer in the backyard. I am currently running a very long ethernet cable from the cable modem inside the house, out the back door of the house, through the yard, and into the door of the trailer where it connects in to my docking station; and then each evening I disconnect the ethernet cable so the family isn't tripping over it at night.

I know this is a temporary solution, but I'm not quite sure what the more permanent solution is.

Is it (as I suspect) figuring out a cleaner (and water tight) way to run the ethernet cable out of the house, buried in the yard, and then into the trailer?

Am I missing a more obvious solution here?

The cable comes into the house from an overhead wire located on the side of the house that is opposite the side where the trailer is located, but perhaps I could split the cable there and run a long cable outside and into the trailer, without having to go through the house?

In case it's not obvious, my level of sophistication when it comes to all things internet is such that I have to look up the difference between a router and a modem every couple of years when an Internet question arises.

Grateful for whatever guidance you fine folks can provide.

ETA: I don't think wifi is an option here, given all the video conference calls, etc. This internet connection needs to be the strongest possible.

[jacob]

DW's work demands using an ethernet cable for security reasons, so I'll be following this thread.

Otherwise wifi might be fast enough for video. If people can't tell, is there a functional difference?
(I do all my interviews/podcasts over wifi separated by one floor and a closed door.)

No solution, but rather than running the cable through the door of the RV, you could use one of these https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-E ... 016B13UDK/ in order to only have to detach the outside cable while leaving the inside cable part of the permanent wiring of the RV. There should be plenty of ways to "get inside" from one of the outside compartments. Generator? Inverter? Sewage? Fridge? The inside wiring can then become more permanent. Our RV had a phonejack next to the couch. I forgot where it came from [the outside] though.

[Ego]

Powerline adapters may do the trick. They encrypt the data between the two adapters so if you cannot work over wifi for security reasons they may be a better option. https://youtu.be/ywQeJCa3jl8

[Slevin]

Yeah I don't know why wifi would be a problem if you just directionally extend it instead of trying to do a whole 360 degree thing; I would first try running a directional wifi extender mounted on the house pointing straight at the trailer, and then run a repeater plugged into the trailer to make the whole trailer has a good signal.

Past that, add an ethernet receptacle to the outside of your house, trench a small underground line and run the ethernet cable inside conduit, running to right near the exterior, and install an exterior ethernet port in the trailer like Jacob is suggesting.

[Chris]

...perhaps I could split the cable there and run a long cable outside and into the trailer, without having to go through the house?

Your Internet provider will have a specific device (modem) registered to their network. So if the cable was run to the trailer, you'd have to bring the modem along with it.

For wifi, if your equipment was made post-2008, there's a good chance that it's 802.11n or 802.11ac, which means that -- with a good signal -- the bandwidth on the wifi link will exceed the bandwidth from your Internet link. So in your setup, I'd try wifi between the house and trailer. If the signal isn't good, then mount an access point at a window on the side of the house facing the trailer.

[Salathor]

Wifi is easily fast enough for intense video use. Over a 5g wireless modem with wifi, I can download at 14MBps (~100 mbps), even through several walls and downstairs from the router. With a wired connection to a cable modem (still fast!) I was only getting 2MB/16mb. Modern wifi is definitely fast enough for video conferencing.

Depends on distance, etc., of course.

[Hristo Botev]

This is all very helpful. Perhaps my situation wasn't as temporary as I thought.

I think my strategy will be to install an ethernet coupler in the trailer in one of the exterior storage areas from which I can easily access the bottom of the bed frame, and then just continue to run an ethernet cable back and forth between the house every night (storing the ethernet cable in the trailer's external storage box in the evenings), rather than to do some sort of more permanent solution with burying an ethernet cable. Burying an ethernet cable in the backyard isn't a great idea anyway because I have several garden beds back there and chickens coming soon.

I will ALSO figure out a way to boost the wifi (I'm too far from the router/modem currently). A wired directional access point at the closest window pointing at the trailer might do it.

The cable company currently has a monopoly on internet services, though that is supposed to be changing soon and perhaps when it does some better, more permanent options for wiring up the trailer will become available.

[OutOfTheBlue]

I agree with Ego, powerline could work great. It is a setup I have used in the past and would bypass the need for a long cable.

How's the cellular data connection there? If it is good and you have an unlimited plan, you could also use USB (or WiFi) tethering and take internet from the phone.

[Hristo Botev]

I agree with Ego, powerline could work great. It is a setup I have used in the past and would bypass the need for a long cable.

How's the cellular data connection there? If it is good and you have an unlimited plan, you could also use USB (or WiFi) tethering and take internet from the phone.

Hmm, I'm trying to figure this powerline thing out. We've got a storage shed in the backyard next to where the trailer is that has power running to it and an electrical outlet. Am I correct that the way this powerline thing might work is as follows: ethernet wire from modem into powerline adaptor electrical outlet next to modem --> ethernet cable from poweline adaptor electrical outlet in storage shed to trailer?

Assuming that's the case, I wonder if plugging the powerline adaptor straight into an outlet in the trailer would work (trailer runs off electricity from the house, in the form of an exterior 30-amp RV hookup I had installed), or if the trailer's electrical system might mess up the powerline in some way.

Cellular data is purposely slowed down here for reasons; so that is not yet an option though it is expected it will be in the not too distant future.

[AxelHeyst]

To add to the solutions hopper... I am in a similar situation to you: my computers are inside a metal skinned structure (aka faraday cage) in the yard. Mine is 200yds from main house. This is my setup:
In the main house, plugged into the router, is a TP-Link 1200 exterior access point EAP. This is a wifi antenna that is mounted to the exterior of the house and beams wifi in my direction.

My studio is metal skinned so wifi signal doesn't penetrate well. I have an external USB wifi adapter. Marketed at gamers who live in moms basement too far from the wifi and want stronger signal. It plugs into my computer, cable runs out the window (for now), and wifi antenna hangs outside pointing at the EAP. I have a USB extension cable to get the length I need.

I get speeds of 18+MPbs, conference call often, etc.

[SavingWithBabies]

Oops, I reread and realized I missed you mentioned wireless was not so great at the end. I do agree it's hard to beat a physical connection for video conferencing. Inter-building network connections are typically done with fiber because it offers some benefits like electrical isolation (ie if the grounds are not exactly the same at either end, I think it's okay if water gets to it underground but not certain, etc...). It's very much affordable these days. You'd basically need:

2 x convertors to go from fiber to ethernet
1 x cable to go from the two locations

I'm ignoring the trenching/protection aspect. You could probably run pex tubing or something like that to put it in?

If you are curious about this route, I'd probably post at https://reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking with the details. It can get pretty tech heavy and people will not hold back on recommending things like switches on each end and all kinds of things. But you can keep it simple. As I haven't done it myself yet, I'll hold off on recommending anything further on the fiber front.

That said, I think it's safe to assume the ground is the same between the trailer and the house so direct bury ethernet cable should be fine too. You'd probably need to get a RJ45 crimper and some bits and pieces so you could make your own cable ends. If you go this route, I'd probably post on the local Craigslist/Facebook marketplace to see if you can find someone who already has that and does this as a side job so they already have a big spool of direct bury CAT6/5 ethernet cable although it looks like you can order it by the foot online too. But if you do want to try it yourself, it's not hard. It's fiddly and it's nice to have a cable tester to verify your connection but it's not necessary. Here is an inexpensive crimper with the supplies:

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Crimpin ... 08DHJBLXQ/

Not recommending that one in particular just sharing an example to show the costs are reasonable. Oh, and that one actually has a tester which is neat. I meant more of a fancy tester like Fluke makes which shows you neat things about your cables but I've only used that while working at a data center where it was a necessary tool.

Lastly, if you do want to try wireless, a mesh network should work. The speed/latency should be good enough for video conferencing. Here is a very inexpensive option to try it out:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... c1200.html

This would be the least effort option if it works well enough.

[jacob]

Lastly, if you do want to try wireless, a mesh network should work. The speed/latency should be good enough for video conferencing. Here is a very inexpensive option to try it out:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... c1200.html

This would be the least effort option if it works well enough.

There happens to be a free setup available here: viewtopic.php?p=266125#p266125

[ffj]

As SWB has alluded to, they make direct bury cable that you just stick in the ground. Trenching is as simple as waiting until it rains and then taking a flat shovel and pushing it into the earth several inches and rocking the handle back and forth. This will create a gap to bury the small cable. It's pretty easy and doesn't require digging. Just stomp the gap closed with your foot when done.

The only tricky part is getting each end into their respective homes. This may require drilling a small hole through a foundation wall and floor that will need to be sealed. Also easy if you have the tools and general knowhow. If you don't feel comfortable with this then by all means find a wireless option.

Also, you may be able to buy a fixed length with the appropriate ends already attached, negating having to buy or borrow a crimper. If it's a bit too long, just leave the excess in your basement or crawlspace.

Good luck

[Hristo Botev]

This is all super helpful. I've ordered a powerline starting kit and will see if that does the trick. If not I could probably still make use of it as our TV is not located on the same wall as our router, which means we have to run a cable under the rug which isn't ideal.

Good news is I can try different solutions and see what works, as I have a reliable back up in running the ethernet cable.

[Hristo Botev]

Holy cow, I think this powerline thing actually works! The electrician installed the 30amp outlet on the side of the house yesterday, run from a subpanel in the garage, and the Airstream is now plugged in and fully powered (no more running a space heater in on an extension cord running on 15amp power; I now get the full benefit of the Airstream's dometic heat pump). I plugged one powerline adaptor next to the router and hooked up an ethernet cable, and I plugged the other one in to the Airstream next to my docking station, running an ethernet cable to the docking station. And, it's working! Here are the results from speed test 1 and 2:





According to the Interwebs (researched using my fancy new powerline network extender), these speeds should be more than sufficient for my remote working needs, and should also be more than sufficient for my kids to stream movies, etc. when they are having sleepovers with friends and family in the Airstream.

Pinch me; people really are quite resourceful. No more running a 100-yard ethernet cable from the house to the Airstream, resulting in necessary gaps at both places letting cold air in.

ETA: For comparison, here's the speed test from when the Airstream is connected via direct ethernet cable; download speed is much faster, but upload is the same. And it's my understanding that the upload speed is more important for things like Zoon, et al., and that ~25mpbs in download speed should be more than enough for my needs. We shall see.

[Salathor]

25 mbps will be fine. That's about full speed for a cable connection, which I used to work remotely for more than a year. How much did the electrician cost? I've been considering hiring somebody to get a proper power box out here for our trailer as well so we could run our electric water heater.

[Hristo Botev]

How much did the electrician cost? I've been considering hiring somebody to get a proper power box out here for our trailer as well so we could run our electric water heater.

Long, long story. But here goes: I called my architect/builder friend and asked him for a recommendation for an electrician; he said: "do you want an electrician, or do you want the guy that my electrician would hire to do the work?" I said I wanted an electrician, and he said I don't think you really need one, and sent me Raul, who didn't speak English and would only be paid in cash. Raul thought I wanted a 220v outlet, because I didn't know what I wanted (my electrical knowledge is slightly better than nada, but it was actually nada before I hired Raul)--I just pointed at the Airstream and said I need an outside outlet for that. Raul installed a 220v outlet, which he ran from the subpanel in the garage, through the attic above the garage, and down into an outlet box outside, for which he charged me $600 all in (all cash, of course). I thought $600 was reasonable, but I have no idea; my architect friend thought Raul charged me more than he should have. Anyway, I plugged the Airstream into the 220v outlet and, well, you can probably guess what happened. Thank goodness I had insurance on the Airstream, which I just got back from the repair shop last week after several months.

The electrician I hired that came out yesterday charged me about $100; because Raul had already done most of the work, he just needed to rewire a couple things (something about a "pole"? and/or "pulling"?). I don't know; less than an hour of time and a few dollars of parts. So, apart from the insurance deductible (ha!), I suspect I paid less for this whole adventure using Raul and then an electrician than I would have paid had I had an electrician come out and do the whole project to begin with.

Raul has since been deported twice and re-entered twice since he was at my house; not my doing, I promise. Apparently he keeps getting pulled over for drunk driving and absolutely refuses to take the free passes the police are giving him to prevent him from being deported--because he refuses to sign anything or something.

Long story short, make REAL sure both you and whoever you hire know exactly what you need in terms of power.

[ffj]

How were you even able to plug it in? Did he change the plug end too? How many things did you fry? Haha

The electrician probably just changed out the double pole breaker for a single pole and matched the appropriate receptacle.

I can laugh at you because of this story: Years ago I added a small electrical water heater to my bathroom remodel and the schematics called for a 10 gauge wire to be used. So I assumed because of the wire size it was a 220 double pole circuit, just like my large water heater. So I wired the circuit and made the connections and everything worked fine. I had really hot water.

For about three weeks. And then my element burned out. So I replaced it. And lo and behold, it happened again. I'm embarrassed to say it took three elements before my dumb ass thought to look at the schematics again where it plainly indicated a 110 circuit. That element had to have been glowing inside that tank. Thankfully I had a water jacket around it to keep from causing any real damage.

So don't feel so bad. And $700 is a fair price for the work done.

[Hristo Botev]

How were you even able to plug it in? Did he change the plug end too? How many things did you fry? Haha

Is there a difference in plugs? I don't know these things; but the outlet is the same now at 110 as it was at 220. This time around I installed a surge protector with EPO. I "only" fried the converter and the microwave--heard a pop and smelled something burning and thought: "this is going to be expensive and time-consuming" (I was right on both accounts).

The electrician probably just changed out the double pole breaker for a single pole and matched the appropriate receptacle.

This sounds like what he told me. He said he was leaving the 10 gauge wire because although it was overkill, there wasn't any need to change it. So all he did was what you said about the double to single poles.

[ffj]

Maybe Raul did rip you off if he didn't match receptacle and plug appropriate to the voltage. But yeah, they are different. A 110 plug shouldn't fit into a 220 circuit for reasons you have discovered.

A 220 will have two hots, a neutral, and a ground whereas a 110 will have a one hot, a neutral, and a ground. It sounds like he wired a 220 circuit into a 110 receptacle, hence the real electrician not changing it. Or you have the wrong plug on your 110 circuit.

Anyway, there are distinct differences for safety reasons. Did the breaker not trip?