Removing bathroom grout/caulking with oscillating tool

[jacob]

I keep having to redo my bathtub seals. (iron to tile)

It seems like there should exist something to attack to an oscillating tool to make removing old grout/caulk (it's a sad mess of both) easier than a razor blade/chisel.

[AxelHeyst]

Wire brush disc on drill?

[jacob]

Wire brush disc on drill?

Inconceivable! I mean, really?

[Ego]

Caulk-B-Gone or Goo Gone

[AxelHeyst]

Inconceivable! I mean, really?

Wire wheel is what I meant, not a handheld wire brush stuck in the drill chuck. These thingies.

Might damage the tile or metal though. Also it'll fling caulk all over the place. I just used a wire wheel to strip the old sealant goop off the metal roof of my trailer before resealing it.

[ffj]

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oscillating+ ... h1q8hpwm_e

[Ego]

Grout and caulk require different solutions. I suspect you are talking about caulk. The caulk in the joint between tub and tile is a pain in the ass to remove because you can't use any hard tools. If you do they will almost certainly score the tub and scratch the tile. The plastic scrapers don't do any damage but they do a horrible job of removing the caulk, especially if you were extremely liberal with the application to seal up leaks. Chemicals are the solution du jour. Well, chemicals followed by the plastic tools.

[RealPerson]

I have the same problem but with grout only. How do you best remove grout prior to regrouting?

[ducknald_don]

Chemicals don't work that well either, at least not in my experience.

[jacob]

Grout and caulk require different solutions. I suspect you are talking about caulk.

I have both. The original was grout (sandy cementy stuff), but this has chipped and cracked over the years. This has been followed by several "handyman special"-type repairs of putting caulk (rubbery) on top of it and trying to fill the cracks. Even if I chemically strip it, I still have to deal with the grout. It's basically a mess.

The caulk in the joint between tub and tile is a pain in the ass to remove because you can't use any hard tools. If you do they will almost certainly score the tub and scratch the tile.

I think I'm capable of doing even more damage than that.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oscillating+ ... h1q8hpwm_e

I might even have one of these, but this looks far too aggressive for what the problem looks like. And the problem exists between the enameled cast iron tub and the lowest row of tiles. Seasonal temperature changes inevitably shifts the house enough to create a few cracks in that joint.

So I was looking for "a soft tool" but to use power to expedite it.

[ffj]

And that is why you aren't supposed to grout between the tub and first row of tiles. Because it will always crack.

You are just going have to dig it out slowly by hand, at least the layers of caulk. A caulk removal tool, utility knife, old screwdriver, whatever, to expose the original grout. This part is not fun. You can tape the tile to limit the scratching. Then take your multitool with the oscillating head I listed and grind the old crap out of there until you've created a large enough void to refill it.

Now what is important here is to go to a tile store and buy their speciality caulking that matches the color of your grout and is designed specifically for this application as it flexes while also maintains its waterproofness. Do not skimp on this caulk with something from Lowes, which is exactly what has happened in the past and now you have to fix it. The end result will look professional and match colors and keep the water out. If you didn't live so far away I would come show you so you are on your own, haha. Good luck.

[Ego]

Probably should have asked this first but what is the coating on the tub? Has it been refinished? Epoxied?

If it hasn't been refinished then leave the grout. Dissolve and strip the old caulk, Razor blades... carefully.... may help. Then recaulk.

Alternatively, here is what we do. Remove as much of the caulk as possible then call the tub refinisher and have them epoxy both the tub and tile. If the tile is nice, we have them refinish the first two inches above the seam between tile and tub. If the tile is not nice, the entire wall get refinished as well. At the end of the job it looks like a new tub and tile, and is perfectly sealed. If my handyman does not do a good job removing the caulk before the refinish job, then the epoxy eventually (2 years) splits at the seam and need to be caulked. If you do this, plan to be out of the house for a few days after.

[Gilberto de Piento]

Would a heat gun help soften the caulk?

Any idea why you have to keep caulking it? Is the tub moving? Are you using low quality caulk? It should last years.