NewBlood's journal

Where are you and where are you going?
AxelHeyst
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by AxelHeyst »

Just putting a bug in your mind, there's something really cool that happens if you can arrange a multi-week period of your life to climb 3-4 days/wk. Doesn't even have to be a huge volume, I'm talking 2-4hrs of climbing (let's say 4-8 pitches) a day, 3-4 days a week, for 4-8 weeks. I did this once (2 months on Kalymnos, a 20min walk to the closest crag) and the end of my stay there was probably the strongest and most mentally conditioned/comfortable I've ever been.

Argh you're making me want to climb again NewBlood. Pretty sure I already said it but arrange a visit to CA sometime and we'll do some fun stuff in the Sierra. :D

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

AxelHeyst wrote:
Wed Mar 19, 2025 10:06 am
Argh you're making me want to climb again NewBlood. Pretty sure I already said it but arrange a visit to CA sometime and we'll do some fun stuff in the Sierra. :D
Dude. Thank you for the invite but don't tempt me.
I've kinda sworn off flying (I have the worst carbon footprint out here, probably...).

I so so wish I had found climbing a lot earlier in my life... I definitely missed out on a lot of cool stuff when I was living in the US. (I did do some other cool stuff though)

Any chance you'll be at Jean's meet-up?
Either way, you should definitely climb again! What does it look like in AK?

Re the multi week thing though. I've been thinking about something like that, a maybe hiking trip (don't want to jinx it) that I'd love to convert into a climbing trip instead. Crossing my fingers. Low probability though...

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

2025 update 12/52

Another climbing-heavy week, just as I like it.

My friends and I broke our Irish pub night tradition because of a health emergency (all good now), but we didn’t let it keep us down and we still had beers together at their house. Not as fun as St Pat’s at the pub, but still nice.

I had my climbing class, which was hard. (do 15 pull ups before lead climbing an overhang route with no rest, hard. But fun hard). Resistance training is no joke. I was gonna go to a second one on Thursday but the wind forecast was too crazy. It took me almost 10 mins longer to get to the gym on Tuesday because of the wind and I decided no to brave it on Thursday since the forecast was worse. Good thing I didn’t go since wind bursts exceeded 110km/h and a bunch of trees fell down across the city.
A couple weeks ago a sudden sideways wind burst ejected me from the bike path onto the road. Luckily there were no cars at that moment, but it could have been bad. This might be the main drawback of City 2. 80-90 days a year with lots of wind…

I then went back to City 1 to celebrate my mom’s 70th bday. My brother also came for a couple days. It was a surprisingly enjoyable weekend with everybody on their best behavior.

I went climbing three days in a row in my home gym, twice with FCP, once with my cousin. So much fun. This is the easy grade gym where I can do 6b routes and V4 boulders. I feel so powerful here, haha. (ok, I promise I’ll stop talking about meaningless climbing grades).
I have zero endurance though, even just two days in a row, my muscles are shot and I can’t really do much on the 2d day. Still fun. I’m going back today anyway (4th day in a row).

Work-wise, I was basically offered a job working with my old PhD team. I’m still waiting for scope of work and the terms of reference, but it would be fully remote for 1-2 years (time frame isn’t super clear yet). Given how tight they are on time to complete this big project, I don’t think I can ask to be less than full-time, but since it’ll be a contract, I can still do whatever hours I want I assume. As long as I can do the work.

On the one hand I’m happy about it because I’m back on track with the plan to work at least 1-2 years in home country to pad the stash, pay taxes here, stop depleting my savings in this plunging dollar environment, re-establish a network here, meet more people.
On the other hand, I need to figure out how to fit a proper job back into my life and I’m not sure I want to…. And I’m a bit anxious about working with that team again. Some of it was good, some of it was less good back in the day. No idea how that’s changed with time.

Either way, I’m gonna do it. I’m mostly worried that if it doesn’t work out, I might torpedo whatever mini professional network I have here.

Goals for the week:
- finish milestone 2 (yup, that’s still on the docket…)
- invoice for first chunk of contract work
- climb two more times with FCP in City 1
- go back to city 2
- go to one climbing class if the wind finally calms the F down.
- take care of friends’ kids one evening
- possibly go on a date ? :?
- maybe go on a hike

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

2025 update 13/52

A very climbing-heavy week again.

I climbed 2 more times in city 1 with FCP, then went back to City2, finally finished the dreaded milestone 2 for my contract, took care of my friends’ kids one night, went climbing once on my own at the gym here, then on Sunday went climbing outdoors all day.

That was a new spot again, so far my favorite. Maybe not as scenic as the last one, but the climbing felt great, the grades felt like what I would expect, I felt more confident and really enjoyed myself. Except on a pretty long route I was lead climbing only to realize I didn’t have enough quickdraws and had a mild panicked moment of wtf, what do I do now? Until someone climbing on the route next to me gave me 3 extra ones and I was able to finish it. I had a good debrief with the instructor afterwards on what to do in this type of situation. So much learning to do still. Step #1, steal the topo from the instructor and read it carefully. It did say 15, not 12, even if most routes weren’t that long.

Anyways, best outdoor climbing session so far for me! Going again next weekend, weather permitting. I’m super tired though, I need to build more endurance or have more recovery days.

Image


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Workwise, I sent my first invoice on this contract now that I’ve finished the first big chunk of it. And in return got 3 or 4 different flavors of the W8-BEN tax form I need to fill. Except I’m not sure which one or how to fill it, it’s all gibberish to me… If anybody has guidance, I would love to hear it. The accountant I contacted still hasn’t answered me…

I read 4 books this month, getting back into a good rhythm here.

I did go on a date, it still wasn’t great, so awkward. I’m too old for this crap. I’m putting myself out there at least. But the prospects aren’t very exciting.

Goals for the week:
- 2 climbing classes
- outdoor climbing on Sunday
- lunch with old PhD advisor and get more details on next work contract
- figure out W8-BEN forms so I can get paid...
- file US taxes
- schedule appointment for local taxes
so many taxes
- another date?


March expenses
NewBlood wrote:
Sun Dec 01, 2024 11:51 am
Something happened this month. Apparently the markets think it’s good news. I’m skeptical but for the first time since I’m tracking things this way, both my total balance and the USD to EUR exchange rate went up.
This has been going super super great. So much winning. ugh. Who woulda thunk, who could have seen it coming?? #sarcasm obviously...

Anyways. both the market and the dollar are down, which is awesome for me. #sarcasm again.
However, seeing the winds shift, I transferred a chunk of cash from my US HYSA to my local bank account, didn't do so bad in timing the dip in exchange rate. So even though my total balance is down, my cash balance is a bit up, because now the euro is much stronger.
I now have in my local bank account in euros enough to pay rent plus the fixed expenses I can't pay with credit card for the next 5 years. (probably overkill, sure). Everything else I still pay for with my US credit card in USD. (which gives good amounts of cash back). And I still have a big chunk of savings in my US HYSA which still has a much higher interest rate than any bank account here.
So hopefully that's enough risk spreading for the next few years of madness. We shall see.

income: $0
back-of-envelope adjusted for taxes total net worth (ATNW): - $12.5k
back-of-envelope adjusted for taxes liquid net worth: + $355
cash balances: + $1200

3% of ATNW: - 84 eur/month.
now equal to 99% of post-tax minimum wage (aka my spending target).

4% of ATNW: - 113 eur/month.
Now equal to 132% of post-tax minimum wage

Expenses were a bit lower this month, despite over 300 eur in climbing-related stuff and over 100 eur for mom’s bday gift.

Withdrawal rate in March was 3.95% of ATNW.
Last edited by NewBlood on Mon Apr 21, 2025 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

brainstorm
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by brainstorm »

NewBlood wrote:
Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:16 am
That was a new spot again, so far my favorite. Maybe not as scenic as the last one, but the climbing felt great, the grades felt like what I would expect, I felt more confident and really enjoyed myself. Except on a pretty long route I was lead climbing only to realize I didn’t have enough quickdraws and had a mild panicked moment of wtf, what do I do now? Until someone climbing on the route next to me gave me 3 extra ones and I was able to finish it. I had a good debrief with the instructor afterwards on what to do in this type of situation. So much learning to do still. Step #1, steal the topo from the instructor and read it carefully. It did say 15, not 12, even if most routes weren’t that long.
Sounds like free soloing is off the table? ;) Just kidding, leading is scary enough enough with protection.

Always enjoy hearing about your climbing adventures. And props for getting out there in both climbing and dating - practice makes perfect! It sounds like you're making good progress on a lot of different fronts.

Wish I could offer any tax tips besides...good luck. So, good luck!

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

brainstorm wrote:
Wed Apr 02, 2025 8:35 pm
Sounds like free soloing is off the table? ;) Just kidding, leading is scary enough enough with protection.
haha, dude. Whenever I watch an Alex Honnold or a Catherine Destivelle explain they trust themselves more than they trust ropes, I'm like... what?? how?? I can't comprehend that level of mastery.
brainstorm wrote:
Wed Apr 02, 2025 8:35 pm
Always enjoy hearing about your climbing adventures. And props for getting out there in both climbing and dating - practice makes perfect! It sounds like you're making good progress on a lot of different fronts.

Wish I could offer any tax tips besides...good luck. So, good luck!
Thanks for the encouragement brainstorm! slowly getting at it and figuring things out, bit by bit.

delay
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by delay »

Thanks for your journal update!
NewBlood wrote:
Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:16 am
And in return got 3 or 4 different flavors of the W8-BEN tax form I need to fill. Except I’m not sure which one or how to fill it, it’s all gibberish to me… If anybody has guidance, I would love to hear it. The accountant I contacted still hasn’t answered me…
I'm asked once every few years to complete a W-8 BEN, the instructions are pretty clear. Which question are you stuck on?
NewBlood wrote:
Thu Apr 03, 2025 4:09 am
haha, dude. Whenever I watch an Alex Honnold or a Catherine Destivelle explain they trust themselves more than they trust ropes, I'm like... what?? how?? I can't comprehend that level of mastery.
Yeah, those free solo climbers are like Apollo astronauts! It's hard to believe anyone would take those risks.

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

2025 update 14/52

Quite a busy week.

I went to two climbing classes, a social meetup (playing a card game with strangers at a bar to meet people), had lunch with my pdh advisor, Friday night pizza with my friends, and another Sunday spent climbing outdoors with my club.

The meetup was kinda nice, the game is fun, I didn't know it, but it's a perfect game, easy to learn, a bit of strategy, lots of luck, not very difficult so you can have conversations at the same time. I didn't meet people I really clicked with though. The person I was supposed to have a date with was also there, so we got there early to have drinks first. Not feeling it... so I skipped Friday's date on account of fed up with the wind and still coughing (still!).

The wind this week has been horrendous again. 70+ km/h all week, my resolve to bike everywhere is weakening, I'm getting very tired (mentally and physically). They say this wind makes people crazy and I believe it.

I biked 2h30 on Tuesday, 1h on Wednesday, 1h30 on Thursday. I had decided to just stay in on Friday, just chill and rest to be able to climb on Sunday. But then my friends lured me out again with pizza. But I took the bus, gosh darnit!

Lunch with my old advisor was nice (it was pizza too... at least I'm carb loading), we hadn't seen each other since 2017 I think. Good to catch up on life and projects. I asked him for more info about the upcoming project (still waiting for TOR) and working relationships with the key players. Sounds potentially tricky, but also lots of opportunities to get more work if I want it. We'll see, I'll play it by ear.

Outdoor climbing was again a lot of fun. Not as fantastic as last week, but still great. Another new spot but with pretty short routes (10-12m). So they're quite a bit more difficult for each grade to make up for the short length. Some moves were quite hard even on some of the easy routes, but I was pretty happy with my climbing. I managed to lead climb some routes without getting scared. Steady progress I'd say. Another day of 8h+ climbing outdoors with cool people. It's getting hot out there though. We're soon going to have to switch to north-facing cliffs.

Image

Image

I've made no progress on taxes. I'm guessing I'm not gonna hear back from the accountant about the W8-BEN before tax season is over... I still need to file my US taxes.

Goals for the week:
- 2 or 3 climbing classes?
- climbing club party before Easter break
- dinner with my friends
- host parents here over the weekend and keep my cool
- file US taxes for real, ugh.

Mousse
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by Mousse »

Those winds sound brutal. I'm also trying to "default to bike" as much as possible, at least within a certain distance, but the wind is the largest barrier and it's nowhere as strong as 70km/h!

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

I exaggerate. Wind bursts were 70+ km/h. average wind speeds were around 50-55 I think.
This week is a lot better so far. Everybody is trying to convince me to get an electric-assisted bike. I might cave at some point...

delay
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by delay »

If you get tired while cycling, why not switch to a lower gear? When I keep my cadence at 80-90 rotations a minute I can cycle against strong wind while feeling weak. Now I don't even think about it.

Not all bikes have low enough gear. Over here, most bicycles displayed in the shop have weirdly large gears, as if they were made to speed down Mont Blanc to sea level. I had to shop around.

An electric bike is heavy and takes more energy to move. They also have seamless levels for assistance. When you tire, you turn on the assistance at heavy moments, but those moments are exactly what you need to keep your muscles. Anyone I know who bought an electric bike lost condition and/or gained weight within a few months.

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Jean
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by Jean »

I'de only take an e bike if you need to lift heavy cargo uphill.
Just use lower gears against the wind.

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

Thanks for the input, guys.

I'm not going to get an e-bike any time soon, I don't have a good secure place for it anyway.
But some windy days make the idea appealing.

I do try lower gears, but then I take even longer to get to where I need to. It's not so much the actual effort that bothers me but the random sideways wind bursts that blast you off onto the road or against parked cars. Stressful. An e-bike would be heavier and maybe more stable.

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

I finally filed my US taxes. Yesterday, on Apr. 15th, around noon EST.
It took all of 30 mins after weeks of angst over it/not doing it. What is wrong with me Dr. ertyu?

I also paid for Turbotax to do it because I'm a moron and don't trust myself with taxes. and because you can't use the free IRS filing software if you live abroad.

ertyu
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by ertyu »

:lol: idk but I know exactly the feeling you describe. Avoid the icky task for two months just to be like, ... you've got to be shitting me, you mean to tell me this whole thing was easy af and took half an hour :lol: I've done this same thing multiple times

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

:lol: I feel less alone, thanks!

I do this all the time, for everything, knowing full well how it's gonna go. I'm so tired of myself sometimes...
It's so much more stressful and exhausting this way too. And I still just can't make myself do it. Ugh.

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

2025 update 15/52

This was a pretty good week.

I spent Monday recovering from the day of outdoor climbing and cooking (arroz con pollo, yum), went to my climbing class on Tuesday, had dinner at my friends', then I went to an extra bouldering "class" before our Easter break party on Wednesday.

I was still physically pretty tired for Tuesday's class, but I almost managed to lead climb and link my project. I had to stop once despite taking a pretty good rest before the crux. Apparently I have a small "conti (continuity = endurance?) delta". (do people speak like that in the US too?)

I have been having some niggling mild knee pain (not during effort). It sounds like medial complex tendinitis (if online translations serve me well). Unsurprisingly, bouldering made it worse... I hadn't bouldered in a while. It really is so much more physical, and all the jumping off (I try to climb down as much as possible) really did me in.
It was fun though. Another team contest and at the end of it nobody counts the points and we go drink beer and eat all the homemade goodies people brought.

The rest of the week was spent giving my knee a rest (skipped Thursday's climbing class, I can be reasonable) and hosting my parents here over the weekend.

That went about as well as could be expected since my dad can't walk and is still his usual depressed grouch. My mom messaged me at the last minute on Friday to tell me they were gonna arrive 3 hours earlier than planned (typical), we went to the same restaurant twice (mom's preference) and went to visit one of the main city attraction. It was nice enough and the weather was finally good enough to enjoy my backyard.

I spent quite a bit of money on stuff for the apartment. Another Ikea order, I finally got some artwork I brought back from the US framed (and since they're custom sizes in the US, they're not custom sizes here and needed special order frames....), bought a couple more frames and a piece of furniture which I spent 3 hours assembling (and 3 blisters later, it looks pretty good). I'm happy with all of it, I finally don't have bare walls and there's now a bit more storage space (shoes and misc items that would end up everywhere). Also silverware that's not rusted through.

I did not do my taxes this (last) week

Goals for the week:
- bouldering "date"
- one or two climbing sessions (no class since it's Easter break)
- doc appointment to get knee checked out
(yes, those goals are at odds with eachother)
- actually do my taxes (apr.15)
- go along with my friend on one of his work day trips to visit a common friend
- have a work call to finally move to next stage of contract

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

2025 update 16/52

Busy week.

I went on a bouldering "date" whith someone who doesn't really boulder at all, and went climbing twice with someone I met through a facebook group who was looking for a climbing partner.

Bouldering date was meh, but not bad. My knee however was very angry at me. Even after 4 days of rest.... So on Friday I went back to my beloved doctor. I've never been as often to the doc as in the past few months, I'm pretty sure my health insurance hates me. Apparently, it's probably my meniscus. Doesn't look too bad, but back to physical therapy. The doc tried to argue for no climbing, I negotiated him down to no bouldering. PT appointment is in ten days, because I'm gonna be away until then...

The two other climbing sessions were much better, both knee-wise and partner-wise. Maybe even promising (partner/date-wise? we shall see).

I tagged along on my friend's (friend #1) work day-trip to go visit another friend (friend #2) while #1 was at his work meeting. Kind of a stupid day, 3h-drive, hang out with friend #2 for 3 hours, work video call from friend #2's house because I couldn't push it to another day, then 3h drive back to city2. But we hadn't seen each other in a year and a half, so this was an opportunity to catch up with friend #2 during a walk by the ocean. and good long talks with friend #1 in the car. At least it's an electric car.

The work call went well, everybody agreed to move onto the next phase of the contract, which means I can finally make some progress on the more technical part of it, which is the part I like.

I also scheduled two appointments with the local tax office so I can figure out what I'm supposed to do since it's my first time filing in home country, and since I have foreign investment accounts which I have no idea how to report. Not completely procrastinating on this one, I'm a bit proud of myself...

I'm still waiting to get something in writing for the upcoming work project. I want to know if it'll be a contract or an actual job as an employee so I can start planning my summer. A lot of cool things on the horizon that I want to have time for. I'm thinking about taking surfing lessons for a week to level up a bit and get comfortable in the local breaks. Maybe even switch from longboard to shortboard. The hiking club I was in last year is organizing their summer camp (a la carte hiking, climbing, canyoning for up to two weeks for super cheap). There's a climbing festival I want to sign up for. And of course Jean's ERE climbing meetup. (this one is a non-negotiable).

Wisdom of the week:
7Wannabe5 wrote:
Mon Apr 14, 2025 9:37 am
I mean under the simplest towards modern conventional terms, the borderline of marital success would be deemed the ability to retain something close to your own innate level of happiness while sharing a domicile and maintaining monogamous sexual contract with your partner. Thinking you could possibly be happier with someone else is one thing, but knowing you would likely be happier on your own is another.
(emphasis mine)
I am definitely happier on my own than I was with ex-SO, and I knew I would be....

Goals for the week:
- spend a few days at my parents in city 1
- dinner with friends
- climb twice with FCP
- go visit grandma and hang out with all the cousins
- make some progress on contract

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Jean
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by Jean »

It really pleases me to read that an event i'm organising is on someone's non negotiable list :D

NewBlood
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Re: NewBlood's journal

Post by NewBlood »

Jean wrote:
Mon Apr 21, 2025 3:50 pm
It really pleases me to read that an event i'm organising is on someone's non negotiable list :D
8-) I'm so excited about it!

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