Make Stuff Log

Fixing and making things, what tools to get and what skills to learn, ...
candide
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by candide »

Sclass wrote:
Tue Mar 12, 2024 10:42 am
I have boxes and boxes of negatives. I wonder if I really even need to do this. Maybe I should just grit my teeth and throw it all in a dumpster.
I would argue for a few representative photos from each time frame of his life. Once you get over five, the amount just starts to seem like "a lot" to anyone looking (I mean any time frame or key event).

Unless any photo "sparks joy" for you, I would say 200 or so should be plenty. Just one guys opinion -- granted, one who did this as the executor of a family member's estate.

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Sclass
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by Sclass »

Thanks for the tip. I selected and scanned only what I cared to save.

I scanned about 1000 images. It actually went pretty fast. Pop the slide in and hit the shutter button. Pop it out and toss it in the trash. The slide scanner was extremely effective and efficient. The iPhone made it very convenient to edit, store and share photos. Not bad for a free scanner. I was worried I’d have to purchase some device.

I used a three in one copier, scanner and printer combo to do the print scanning. It was a 2014 Canon 3 in 1 sitting in the junk pile. Dry ink but the scanner works great.

AxelHeyst
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by AxelHeyst »

I made a rolltop framebag. No zippers to blow out. Longer post here.

Image

ETA: the full setup:
Image
Last edited by AxelHeyst on Thu May 23, 2024 12:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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mountainFrugal
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by mountainFrugal »

Very cool @AH. It looks good on Blue Bessy. Does it rub your right leg at all? This is always a problem with frame packs IMO. It is easy to overfill them and then you end up with annoying chaffing even if only occasionally touching the bag throughout the day.

AxelHeyst
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by AxelHeyst »

TBD. I sewed attachment points inside the frame so I can internally cinch it if rubbing is an issue. Will report back in 1.5months! :lol:

mir
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by mir »

The frame bag looks cool! Isn't the black thing in the middle a zipper? Does the top just roll over? What type of rope did you use to attach the bag to the frame. I am making a frame bag but my frame space is too small. I used a number 10 zipper and the slider and zipper are so heavy.

@MountainFrugal I was researching what is an appropriate maximum width yesterday. It seems between 1.5" and 2.5" is fine. Vertical or horizontal removable velcro dividers could be implemented to prevent the bag from bulging. Another idea is to use varying width, thinner at the top tube - seat tube junction and wider at the cranks and head tube.

AxelHeyst
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by AxelHeyst »

No, black thing in middle is just webbing sewn across for strength and a secure attachment point for the straps that secure over the rolltop. The 'rope' is 1/8" shock cord. Paracord would work almost as well.

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mountainFrugal
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by mountainFrugal »

@mir I think it can be managed for sure. Most of my experience is with trail bikes on single track or very bad forest service roads so it might be a consequence of that style of riding rather than the bags themselves. Post pictures of your frame bag when you are done and let us know any good solutions you find once you spend time with it on the bike!

AxelHeyst
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by AxelHeyst »

No rubbing (I just fold the roll top over the top tube). Very happy with the frame bag and love that it’s roll top not zipped - able to ‘over’stuff it with no problems. The bike handles *so* much better with weight concentrated forward and down vs. panniers, it’s night and day to last year’s setup.

mir
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by mir »

This was my setup. The frame bag I made worked well, though it has limited space due to the small frame size. I used Gorilla Tape to attach two bottle holders to the fork, and secured one to the frame with hose clamps. I also made several straps with buckles to keep the bottles securely in place. The seat bag was originally meant to be used without a rack, but I’m not tall enough for that setup. I'm really glad I made the frame holder, as it gave me a way to lift the bike easily. The setup for the front bag wasn’t ideal, but I didn’t have time to improve it.

Overall, everything held up fine, although I could only bikepack for four days due to knee and foot issues. I covered about 350 km in those four days, though I was the slowest in the group.
Image

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Sclass
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by Sclass »

Nice work!

jacob
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by jacob »

Woodworking books are often written in a way that makes plane making sound like some kind of arcane art that has been perfected over many centuries. As such, I've avoided trying to make my own until now. I spent the past week or so making a jack plane and a block plane. Now, before anyone starts calculating some ridiculously low hourly wage, keep in mind that the reason it takes that long is several 24hr+ rounds of waiting for glue to dry. Other than that, I estimate that total hands-on work time for this construction method is less than an hour per plane. As always, making the first one usually takes twice as long as making the second one---the second twice as long as the third ... but then it's fast cruising from there on.
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It turns out there's actually not much to [making your own plane] and these work as well as my $250+ Lie-Nielsens. The only short-coming is that using the traditional wedge retainer doesn't work as well as the modern mechanism. As such one has to take care and readjust the iron every so often. It's also more difficult to get it just right although I presume this will come with practice.

Not being made out of 100% metal, these are significantly lighter and thus require less effort to work. There's some debate as to whether extra weight in a plane is actually good or bad.

I'm going to be using the DIY versions for a while to work out any snags. If they hold up, I'm going to sell my fancy plane "collection" back to eBay.

(For the nerds, these are both 45 degree bevel down configurations. No chip breaker. Body is all sandwiched Baltic birch. The sides are 1/4". The wedge is 5 degrees. The iron retainer pin is halfway down. The handle is white oak and is replaceable and retained by a single dowel pin. There's a bunch of other thru-dowels glued into the side of the sandwich to keep it from disintegrating during load. The jack plane is the exact length of a #5.)

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Sclass
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by Sclass »

That is a neat set of planes.

I recall seeing a demo of Japanese planes at Hida Tool in Berkeley. They create an amazing surface finish.

Are your blades sourced from a special vendor? How do you maintain their sharpness?

jacob
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by jacob »

Sclass wrote:
Wed Apr 16, 2025 10:26 am
Are your blades sourced from a special vendor? How do you maintain their sharpness?
I just "borrowed" the irons from my Lie Nielsens. As far as I know, they're just O1 or A2 tool steel, no magic. If this works out, my plan is to just buy a lot of random old irons on eBay. It's also possible to make your own, but virgin tool steel is pretty expensive (online).

One thing about reusing irons intended for modern holding mechanisms is that they're flat whereas traditional irons had a slight inverted wedge (thicker towards the sharp end). This along with a rougher surface combined with the pinning wedge to hold them better.

I still use "scary sharp" (sandpaper tacksprayed on glass).

Add: The Lie-Nielsens are as far as I know just better/finer versions of the regular Stanley planes which are/where ubiquitous in the US and so left a lot of irons in their wake.

ffj
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by ffj »

@jacob

I've thought about making something similar for bench chisels. Just throw a chisel in a homemade body for making small relief cuts for such things as hinges or strike plates.

If you sell those fancy Lie Neilsons hit me up. I like a bougie hand plane. ;)

jacob
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Re: Make Stuff Log

Post by jacob »

@ffj - I've made "ghetto-routers" like that. Drill a hole through the middle of a 2x4 (two hand widths long) at 40-50 degrees and then hammer a chisel through the hole (bevel down). The hole needs to be about the right size to hold it solid. This works so well that I got rid of my hand router.

I actually do own an LN specialty plane for making indents for hinges. This works pretty well. Easier than routing because the plane can easily be set up for the exact depth by indexing directly from the hinge.

I'll let you know how it goes with the planes.

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