Fixit Log
Re: Fixit Log
Fixed the trunk spring on my Honda Accord. This is the second time I’ve had to do this. There are two springs. I was too cheap to replace both springs a few years ago so here I am again. Apparently Honda used some low quality springs in the trunk lift. They break. They take out a plastic anti vibration clip when they break too.
Quick search online and there are parts and videos. 10 minutes later I’m an expert and have the parts on the way. $55 for two springs and $8 for two anti vibration clips. Ouch. Amazon Prime only had two packs…I guess I should have changed both springs the first time around. Now I have an extra that I’ll never use.
Took ten minutes to put the spring in. Most of the time was cleaning trunk so I could climb in.
https://youtu.be/lm98rJyLBc4?si=7KJHWBmGQBVKOis7
Not sure how much I saved. $100? Maybe more since labor rates are around $150 here and they charge minimum one hour. Anyhow I think the big save is time. I hate waiting for people fixing my car.
Now I can splurge at the farmer’s market today.
Quick search online and there are parts and videos. 10 minutes later I’m an expert and have the parts on the way. $55 for two springs and $8 for two anti vibration clips. Ouch. Amazon Prime only had two packs…I guess I should have changed both springs the first time around. Now I have an extra that I’ll never use.
Took ten minutes to put the spring in. Most of the time was cleaning trunk so I could climb in.
https://youtu.be/lm98rJyLBc4?si=7KJHWBmGQBVKOis7
Not sure how much I saved. $100? Maybe more since labor rates are around $150 here and they charge minimum one hour. Anyhow I think the big save is time. I hate waiting for people fixing my car.
Now I can splurge at the farmer’s market today.
Re: Fixit Log
I'm going to hazard a wild guess and assume both sides of this cheap desk lamp switch need to be connected to the wire?
How does one reconnect both ends of the light switch to the wire
FYI this is a 15 cm tall or so lamp that plugs in via usb, the cord is very thin compared to a normal lamp and the appliance makes 0 claims to quality, either in price or in construction, i'm doing this for the learning experience
How does one reconnect both ends of the light switch to the wire
FYI this is a 15 cm tall or so lamp that plugs in via usb, the cord is very thin compared to a normal lamp and the appliance makes 0 claims to quality, either in price or in construction, i'm doing this for the learning experience
Re: Fixit Log
Yes. Look up a video about how such a push button switch works.
It looks like the clip should hold even a very weak connection in place. If that's the case, soldering should be sufficient. No soldering iron yet? Some of the cheapest crap wherever you can find it should suffice. For regular use, a few reference brands are Hakko, Weller and Ersa.How does one reconnect both ends of the light switch to the wire
Re: Fixit Log
cheapest it is. I'm learning plus i don't have a permanent residence. off to youtube with me. thanks loutfard
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Re: Fixit Log
@ertyu - Here's my cheap iron (free to me from freecycle) with a homemade tip: viewtopic.php?p=281375#p281375 (scroll up to see the old tip). It has worked fine. An iron around 15W is a good size. Not too fast, not too slow. You need some soldering wire too, preferably with a flux core. Don't make it too thick. I use 0.6mm. That thickness matches the iron wattage and the size of typical electronic components and the switch you're working on.
You don't really need a stand for the iron as long as you don't do something stupid and burn the house down. Also no need for a sponge or a copper tip cleaner---I use some damp paper towel. A "tin sucker" or a wick is nice to have, but you can also ghetto a wick using the capillary effect of any multistrand wire.
Add: Get one with a pointy tip, not one that looks like a flat screwdriver. It doesn't make a difference for this particular problem, but if you ever need to solder a circuit board, you want the pointy kind.
You don't really need a stand for the iron as long as you don't do something stupid and burn the house down. Also no need for a sponge or a copper tip cleaner---I use some damp paper towel. A "tin sucker" or a wick is nice to have, but you can also ghetto a wick using the capillary effect of any multistrand wire.
Add: Get one with a pointy tip, not one that looks like a flat screwdriver. It doesn't make a difference for this particular problem, but if you ever need to solder a circuit board, you want the pointy kind.
Re: Fixit Log
An upcycled mayonnaise jar or salsa jar makes a good free stand. I put a little *stainless steel pot scrubbie in the bottom as a tip cleaner. It’ll collect the lead waste in a safe place for years.
*the pros use brass scrubbies. Stainless will gradually abrade the tip plating away so I only use this on really cheap irons ($6) that I don’t care about damaging. I reserve this for my “dirty job iron” that will get coated in melted plastic insulation while only being used occasionally. I also don’t get vigorous about cleaning the tip in the scrubbie. I recommend them because they’re cheap and readily available like a salsa jar.
Re: Fixit Log
Fixed moth holes on Persian carpet.
One of the few things I saved from my parents’ home while cleaning up was a vintage Persian rug. The problem was it got two moth holes in it. I kind of ignored a moth infestation in the house after my mom passed. My folks left wool suits, a tapestry, Navajo rugs, sweaters and many old hand knotted carpets from a variety of middle eastern countries. The moths feasted on some of them. Others they left alone. I guess some taste good and others do not. This particular rug got two holes about the size of a half dollar.
I watched a YouTube video on rug restoration and figured out how to knot in some yarn and then trim it to length. I tied in about one hundred knots. Took two hours but it was kind of an interesting and satisfying job. I didn’t bother reconstructing the geometric pattern but I did manage to match the navy blue color.
Materials : crochet hook and some thin blue yarn from Walmart. $7.
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One of the few things I saved from my parents’ home while cleaning up was a vintage Persian rug. The problem was it got two moth holes in it. I kind of ignored a moth infestation in the house after my mom passed. My folks left wool suits, a tapestry, Navajo rugs, sweaters and many old hand knotted carpets from a variety of middle eastern countries. The moths feasted on some of them. Others they left alone. I guess some taste good and others do not. This particular rug got two holes about the size of a half dollar.
I watched a YouTube video on rug restoration and figured out how to knot in some yarn and then trim it to length. I tied in about one hundred knots. Took two hours but it was kind of an interesting and satisfying job. I didn’t bother reconstructing the geometric pattern but I did manage to match the navy blue color.
Materials : crochet hook and some thin blue yarn from Walmart. $7.
Before:
After:
Re: Fixit Log
DIY rust removal
DW bought a bike for cheap on Facebook marketplace, which is great, except part of the reason it was so cheap is that it was super rusty. Not as great! Since she wants to use this as her daily commuter bike, I wanted to make it look a little more presentable. The most visible parts that needed help were the fenders and the rear rack.
Enter DIY rust removal solution: water + citric acid + [washing soda or baking soda or caustic soda] + dish soap to act as a surfactant. Taken from this video.
Soaked bike parts in a plastic tub for a few hours and they look much better. They're a little corroded because the rust was so bad, but you can't tell unless you look really closely. It looks way better and DW seems happy with it so I'd say it was a win! Cheaper than name-brand rust remover and it was a fun chemistry project. Not to mention, it seems like this stuff could have a whole bunch of other DIY repair applications.
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DW bought a bike for cheap on Facebook marketplace, which is great, except part of the reason it was so cheap is that it was super rusty. Not as great! Since she wants to use this as her daily commuter bike, I wanted to make it look a little more presentable. The most visible parts that needed help were the fenders and the rear rack.
Enter DIY rust removal solution: water + citric acid + [washing soda or baking soda or caustic soda] + dish soap to act as a surfactant. Taken from this video.
Soaked bike parts in a plastic tub for a few hours and they look much better. They're a little corroded because the rust was so bad, but you can't tell unless you look really closely. It looks way better and DW seems happy with it so I'd say it was a win! Cheaper than name-brand rust remover and it was a fun chemistry project. Not to mention, it seems like this stuff could have a whole bunch of other DIY repair applications.
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Re: Fixit Log
Way to go @dustbowl. That fender looks new. Make sure the bike doesn't become too pretty...don't want it stolen
I have never heard of that method of rust removal - my favourite is a good old wire wheel on a grinder. But this is quieter, far less violent, (those wire wheels fling pieces of wire everywhere) and it seems to hit every part that is submerged. Seems simpler than electrolysis too as it eliminates the need for a power source. Nice fix!
I have never heard of that method of rust removal - my favourite is a good old wire wheel on a grinder. But this is quieter, far less violent, (those wire wheels fling pieces of wire everywhere) and it seems to hit every part that is submerged. Seems simpler than electrolysis too as it eliminates the need for a power source. Nice fix!
Re: Fixit Log
@dustbowl - wow that bike looks presentable now. Nice work.
Re: Fixit Log
Thanks guys, I have to admit I’m pretty happy with this one
Re: Fixit Log
My cordless circular saw started acting up last week. When I put a battery in, the saw would run, even with my finger off the safety/trigger. It was clear there was an issue with the switch assembly, so I took it apart and sprayed everything down with compressed air, hoping to clear out any possible debris that may be affecting the mechanism. No luck. I ended up taking the switch apart this morning. It's just a collection of springs that move forward and depress a plate that activates the motor when the trigger is pulled. I didn't see anything that looked off and put everything back together. Popped the battery in and the sound of silence! Problem solved. I think the plate/springs might have been bumped out of alignment so that they were always depressed on the activation switch and stuck in that position. I'm pleased that I don't have to shell out $7 for a new switch.
Re: Fixit Log
Battery in car went dead. We are having some high temperatures out in my area and I think it killed my car battery. I thought I’d follow up because I posted up here two years ago how I saved this battery using a pulse desulfator charger I got on Amazon for $25. It was pretty amazing. The battery went dead two years ago and wouldn’t start the car. It wouldn’t take a charge from a conventional charger (or from the car’s alternator).
I bought this device and saved it. The battery would get weak every five months so I’d do the process again. Basically overnight on this machine and it would be good for another five months. Whenever it would get weak I’d run the recovery charge mode and it would come back to life.
Well today it isn’t responding to the recovery mode. I think it is time for a new battery. It’s pretty amazing I was able to get two more years out of the battery using this $25 device. It’s no small thing because the batteries for diesel engines are really expensive. I paid $200 in 2018. I suspect I’ll be paying more this time.
Seems like it worked out economically. There wasn’t much warning. It had a weak crank last night. Then poof it was dead today. Good thing it happened at home.
Just thought I’d follow up. It’s kind of disappointing that my batteries always seem to die a few months into their warranty period. This charger stretched the life a few years beyond that.
ETA - hey I just walked out into the garage to pull the battery out of the car. I pulled off the pulse desulfator and for kicks I tried to start the car. It started perfectly. Like new. The charger hadn’t gone through the entire recovery cycle but it apparently charged it enough between now and the time I posted this message. I guess I didn’t give it enough time. I think I’ll leave it on overnight.
I bought this device and saved it. The battery would get weak every five months so I’d do the process again. Basically overnight on this machine and it would be good for another five months. Whenever it would get weak I’d run the recovery charge mode and it would come back to life.
Well today it isn’t responding to the recovery mode. I think it is time for a new battery. It’s pretty amazing I was able to get two more years out of the battery using this $25 device. It’s no small thing because the batteries for diesel engines are really expensive. I paid $200 in 2018. I suspect I’ll be paying more this time.
Seems like it worked out economically. There wasn’t much warning. It had a weak crank last night. Then poof it was dead today. Good thing it happened at home.
Just thought I’d follow up. It’s kind of disappointing that my batteries always seem to die a few months into their warranty period. This charger stretched the life a few years beyond that.
ETA - hey I just walked out into the garage to pull the battery out of the car. I pulled off the pulse desulfator and for kicks I tried to start the car. It started perfectly. Like new. The charger hadn’t gone through the entire recovery cycle but it apparently charged it enough between now and the time I posted this message. I guess I didn’t give it enough time. I think I’ll leave it on overnight.
Re: Fixit Log
"Battery manufacturers hate this one weird trick".
Re: Fixit Log
My wife hates this weird trick.
I just checked my battery after leaving it all night on the recovery charge mode. The charger said the cycle was complete. I cranked and started the car six times in succession with no degradation in cranking rpm. I’d say it’s a fix.
This fomented a fierce argument with my wife. She is of the opinion that once a battery is out of warranty it is time to replace it. I think this is quite aggressive and the battery could potentially last much longer. Honestly though on these diesel cars my experience is I buy a 3 year warranty unit and it starts giving trouble at 4 years. I bought this battery in 8/18 so we are exactly six years old now. It started acting up when it was four years old. One year out of warranty.
So perhaps out of keeping the peace in my home I’ll buy a new one. It’s really hard to do this. This is one of those ERE partner moments where my SO is screaming “you cheap bastard Sclass! Stop trying to save a dollar or you’ll get us stuck someplace!” Lots of accusations about being frugal are flying around. She’s dredging up all these angry memories about how cheap I was in the past and how it stressed her out. I get it. The batteries don’t give much warning before they leave us stuck. She really didn’t like me running batteries in her car to the last possible moment. And she absolutely hates this new charger.
Right now she’s screaming about how she needs to dump any broken stuff away from the house or I’ll dig it out of the trash and fix it. Ok. Gotta go. The screaming is getting really loud. I think I need to pull the battery and replace it with a new one.
For the record the brand of the charger is Nexpeak. Model NC101. 6amp model. On sale at Amazon right now for $20 shipped prime. I feel like buying these as Christmas gifts for my buddies. I am still in disbelief that this thing actually works.
I just checked my battery after leaving it all night on the recovery charge mode. The charger said the cycle was complete. I cranked and started the car six times in succession with no degradation in cranking rpm. I’d say it’s a fix.
This fomented a fierce argument with my wife. She is of the opinion that once a battery is out of warranty it is time to replace it. I think this is quite aggressive and the battery could potentially last much longer. Honestly though on these diesel cars my experience is I buy a 3 year warranty unit and it starts giving trouble at 4 years. I bought this battery in 8/18 so we are exactly six years old now. It started acting up when it was four years old. One year out of warranty.
So perhaps out of keeping the peace in my home I’ll buy a new one. It’s really hard to do this. This is one of those ERE partner moments where my SO is screaming “you cheap bastard Sclass! Stop trying to save a dollar or you’ll get us stuck someplace!” Lots of accusations about being frugal are flying around. She’s dredging up all these angry memories about how cheap I was in the past and how it stressed her out. I get it. The batteries don’t give much warning before they leave us stuck. She really didn’t like me running batteries in her car to the last possible moment. And she absolutely hates this new charger.
Right now she’s screaming about how she needs to dump any broken stuff away from the house or I’ll dig it out of the trash and fix it. Ok. Gotta go. The screaming is getting really loud. I think I need to pull the battery and replace it with a new one.
For the record the brand of the charger is Nexpeak. Model NC101. 6amp model. On sale at Amazon right now for $20 shipped prime. I feel like buying these as Christmas gifts for my buddies. I am still in disbelief that this thing actually works.
Re: Fixit Log
That's funny @Sclass. But to keep the peace, maybe use this battery only in a car you are using .
One of my tenants told me the washing machine gave an error, the water wasn't pumped out of the machine to the drain. I asked him to clean the filter, didn't help. I was in the neighbourhood so I came by and found a piece of metal (bra underwire) in the hose connected to the filter. I didn't had time to check and look further at that moment so asked the tenant to check if it was okay again. It wasn't.
I ordered a new pump incl. the filter house and went back to install it. Swaped the pumps and just before closing the bottom again I thought to check the old pump further and remove it from the filter house. Right....there was another small piece of metal, broken of the larger part I found earlier. It was blocking the scoops of the pump. Allright, removed the metal part and installed the old pump and filterhouse again. Tested it a couple of times and all okay again. I'll return the part that I didn't need after all.
When I got the message initially I considered to get a new washing machine, I don't want trouble with tenants about this and/or pay 30-50% for a repair of a 7 year old appliance. Good I spend some time, now the cost in money is zero and just a couple of hours plus I now know that replacing a pump of a washing machine is really very simple.
One of my tenants told me the washing machine gave an error, the water wasn't pumped out of the machine to the drain. I asked him to clean the filter, didn't help. I was in the neighbourhood so I came by and found a piece of metal (bra underwire) in the hose connected to the filter. I didn't had time to check and look further at that moment so asked the tenant to check if it was okay again. It wasn't.
I ordered a new pump incl. the filter house and went back to install it. Swaped the pumps and just before closing the bottom again I thought to check the old pump further and remove it from the filter house. Right....there was another small piece of metal, broken of the larger part I found earlier. It was blocking the scoops of the pump. Allright, removed the metal part and installed the old pump and filterhouse again. Tested it a couple of times and all okay again. I'll return the part that I didn't need after all.
When I got the message initially I considered to get a new washing machine, I don't want trouble with tenants about this and/or pay 30-50% for a repair of a 7 year old appliance. Good I spend some time, now the cost in money is zero and just a couple of hours plus I now know that replacing a pump of a washing machine is really very simple.
Re: Fixit Log
Made a new head harness for my 3M respirator.
Ive had these respirators a few years. I use them for brake work, yard cleanup, wildfire smoke and virus protection. I’ve fixed the head harness before but it looks like the plastic skull straps are degrading and cracking up. The plastic got brittle. The rest of the mask is okay. Prior fixes are no good because the entire head harness is fracturing apart.
I envisioned making some straps with scrap leather or fabric then I remembered I have all these neck lanyards from convention ID badges. They’re made of a very strong nylon webbing material. I’ve saved piles of them over the years. So I used one. Cut and sew together. Came out great. Saved the cost of a new mask or the replacement part that basically costs as much as a new mask.
Now I have $30 to squander at the Taco Truck.
Broken.
Fixed.
Ive had these respirators a few years. I use them for brake work, yard cleanup, wildfire smoke and virus protection. I’ve fixed the head harness before but it looks like the plastic skull straps are degrading and cracking up. The plastic got brittle. The rest of the mask is okay. Prior fixes are no good because the entire head harness is fracturing apart.
I envisioned making some straps with scrap leather or fabric then I remembered I have all these neck lanyards from convention ID badges. They’re made of a very strong nylon webbing material. I’ve saved piles of them over the years. So I used one. Cut and sew together. Came out great. Saved the cost of a new mask or the replacement part that basically costs as much as a new mask.
Now I have $30 to squander at the Taco Truck.
Broken.
Fixed.
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Re: Fixit Log
I guess about two weeks
So I bit the bullet and forked over $9 for an OEM replacement switch... and replaced it.
Other and much cheaper switches from other sellers might have worked but the interwebs weren't all too clear on form factors, etc.
Re: Fixit Log
Do you like your air fryer?
When my wife purchased one I first thought it was a gimmick and a complete waste of money. I’ve really learned to like it. Especially after I saved it from the dumpster.
Good for puff pastries, roasted green chilies, tandoori chicken, tortilla chips, broiled fish, crispy onion toppers, and others. I can easily move it outside on hot nights and not heat up my home.
When my wife purchased one I first thought it was a gimmick and a complete waste of money. I’ve really learned to like it. Especially after I saved it from the dumpster.
Good for puff pastries, roasted green chilies, tandoori chicken, tortilla chips, broiled fish, crispy onion toppers, and others. I can easily move it outside on hot nights and not heat up my home.
Re: Fixit Log
So my brother thinks I am a chainsaw expert because I've worked with them for about ten years for work. I'm not. I know how to not kill myself and the most basic general maintenance (think spark plugs, pull cords, air filters, sharpening). Anyway, someone gave him a nice Stihl chainsaw cause it stopped working for them and he asked me to fix it, He thought the chain had been tightened too tight because it wasn't turning. I visited him and brought my screech to adjust the chain--but the chain was set at perfect tension. Started it up, realized the trigger wasn't giving it gas, took off the air cover filter and could see that the rod from the trigger was just flopping around, so I brought it home with me.
The first YouTube video I found addressing the issue on that make of chainsaw did a lot of things and they took off the choke mechanism in their process, so I did too. This was...sort of?..a mistake. I had to buy a new ratchet set for the next part, removing the air filter box, but luckily the set also has an attachment that I need for something on my car, and it was cheap--10$. Anyway--the rod attaching the trigger to the carb was simply detached and had to be slipped back into the slot. No replacement part needed, although it is possible it is stretched and may come out of the slot again easily. It is holding so far. I went to put everything back together and could not get the choke mechanism back together so I looked up a video on just that and learned how to remove the entire plastic on/off/choke/half choke piece, which made putting the choke mechanism back together easy. Unfortunately, while removing the switch piece I knocked the throttle rod loose and didn't realize till everything was back together....But now I knew enough to realize you don't need to mess with the choke at all, so accessing the carb just requires removing two small bolts and it was quick. I guess I also now know how to replace the on/off/choke/half choke switch for my troubles.
Started it up, it runs like a top, throttle works, cuts great... I love Stihl chainsaws. Anyway, I was proud of myself for this 'cause I'd never done it before (although it is so easy it's not really something to be proud of haha.)
The price to get them worked on here is a 50$ initial inspection fee then 150$ an hour for time working on the machine, so for a 10$ tool my brother gets a Stihl chainsaw. =)
Names of various parts may be inaccurate. I don't pay enough attention to accurate names.
Reading through this log is inspiring....XD Much more complicated fixes than anything I've attempted.
The first YouTube video I found addressing the issue on that make of chainsaw did a lot of things and they took off the choke mechanism in their process, so I did too. This was...sort of?..a mistake. I had to buy a new ratchet set for the next part, removing the air filter box, but luckily the set also has an attachment that I need for something on my car, and it was cheap--10$. Anyway--the rod attaching the trigger to the carb was simply detached and had to be slipped back into the slot. No replacement part needed, although it is possible it is stretched and may come out of the slot again easily. It is holding so far. I went to put everything back together and could not get the choke mechanism back together so I looked up a video on just that and learned how to remove the entire plastic on/off/choke/half choke piece, which made putting the choke mechanism back together easy. Unfortunately, while removing the switch piece I knocked the throttle rod loose and didn't realize till everything was back together....But now I knew enough to realize you don't need to mess with the choke at all, so accessing the carb just requires removing two small bolts and it was quick. I guess I also now know how to replace the on/off/choke/half choke switch for my troubles.
Started it up, it runs like a top, throttle works, cuts great... I love Stihl chainsaws. Anyway, I was proud of myself for this 'cause I'd never done it before (although it is so easy it's not really something to be proud of haha.)
The price to get them worked on here is a 50$ initial inspection fee then 150$ an hour for time working on the machine, so for a 10$ tool my brother gets a Stihl chainsaw. =)
Names of various parts may be inaccurate. I don't pay enough attention to accurate names.
Reading through this log is inspiring....XD Much more complicated fixes than anything I've attempted.