Fixit Log

Fixing and making things, what tools to get and what skills to learn, ...
ducknald_don
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by ducknald_don »

The batteries in my wife's last two cars lasted 11 years and 150,000 miles. I'm not sure about the current one though as it has a stop/start system.

Gilberto de Piento
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Gilberto de Piento »

white belt wrote:
Wed Mar 08, 2023 4:29 pm
From my limited internet research, it seems a common method is to clean the rust off and then use something like Dr. ColorChip matched to the vehicle paint code.
I ordered a tiny bottle of color matched paint to fix a couple of very small rusting rock chips. It was cheap but it took a few weeks to get. I'm waiting for a week or two of dry days so that the spots are totally dry before applying. I didn't get primer. I have to remove the rust before painting. Thankfully it is just a tiny bit of rust so far, no depth to it.

white belt
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by white belt »

I popped off my door panel finally to troubleshoot why my passenger side window is stuck in the up position. I could hear the regulator still moving when I pressed the button, so I figured it was likely a broken clip. However, I discover that the bottom part of the regulator had actually popped off and was laying at the bottom of the door:

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This meant a few things. First off, nothing has been holding up the window for 2+ years other than the friction of the tracks as the clips weren't attached to the window. Second, something had to apply enough horizontal force to pop off the bottom piece. My first thought was to simply reattach it. This proved difficult but I was able to do it by heating up the plastic to soften it up and using large pliers to jam the pieces back together. However, when I tested the regulator again, it seemed to be only going up halfway and getting stuck. After popping the window out to get another look at the regulator, I realized the issue:

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It may be hard to tell from the photo, but the scissor joint is completely bent to the side. I suspect what happened was that the clips detached from the window at some point due to the friction on the tracks. At that point, the regulator could still move up and down, which meant that the clips could now catch on other pieces within the door and start to get bent out of place. Additionally, another plastic/metal connection point to the door had popped out, which meant the scissor was never going to function correctly. I thought about trying to take out the entire regulator and bending it back into position, but ultimately decided it was smarter to just buy a new one for $40 and install it. It should come within a few days. I also will pick up some more silicon glue for the clips and spray for the window tracks.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Smarter to get a new part if you can. Great fix.

It’s amazing how strong regulators are. When a window jams up you can really destroy one. My regulator failures were broken gear teeth just at the point where the window stops at the top of the channel. The motor doesn’t stop and relies on your prudence with the button not to stress out the gear. After 40 years on my car the teeth got sheared off. First the frame bent inside then the gears moved slightly apart which allowed them to slip. From there the gears just ground each other away. The harder motor pinion won.

Reminds me to go and silicone oil the felt seals on my windows.

theanimal
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by theanimal »

Last time I checked the hood of my car, I noticed the latch was loose and I could pull it open from the closed position. It looked gunked up with dirt and I figured a good cleaning would do the trick. I finally got around to doing it yesterday. It was a pretty easy process. To remove the latch, I took off the front grill cover of the car, loosened three bolts and took out the opening cable. From there I let it soak for a few minutes in hot soapy water then did some scrubbing with steel wool and a wire brush. Once I got it all cleaned up, I used some silicone lubricant and worked the latch a few times to get it moving again. Everything back in again and I dropped the hood. Settled in to place no problem and would not budge.

Before

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After, back in place
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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

My garage door capacitor blew out again. I’ve gone through two capacitors in a month.

While looking up replacement capacitors for my Genie (CM7500-S) I found out it calls for a 70uF. I wonder if this is an issue.

I’ve just been replacing with 50uF because that’s what I found in there. Wonder if this matters. The original 50uF must have lasted at least a decade. Dunno.

I’ve decided to experiment with a 70uF and see what happens. It was $10 shipped which is a lot less than a new opener unit. My motor seems to be good and strong. The tracks are smooth and I balanced the door springs. Not sure what is going on here.

Laura Ingalls
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Laura Ingalls »

I noticed when I used the toilet the other day that it was leaking from where the tank and bowl meet.

I ordered.

Fluidmaster Tank to Bowl Bolt &... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQKRJ2?re ... b_ap_share

DH got the first bolt off pretty easily. The second was brutal. We had all manner of tools out and tried a bunch of different techniques. Eventually we figured out how to cut the bolt. It had 40 plus years to rust.

The new one installed pretty quickly.

I am still amazed that one of us didn’t force something and brake the porcelain either accidentally or in a fit of temper/frustration.

We celebrated our victory with homemade bread and more coffee.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Hah. This deserves a comment.

How exactly did you cut the bolt?

I’ve always struggled with this. The bolts are always rusted. They’re too close to the wall for a bolt cutter. When I try a hacksaw/sawzall between the bowl and tank the bolt starts spinning in place and it won’t cut. Also when I have tried drilling the bolt from the tank side it spins and renders the drill ineffective.

A friend suggested I use two hacksaw blades cutting on opposite sides of the bolt. Slip them in from the front of the toilet between the tank and bowl. This way the bolt doesn’t spin. Never tried this trick but it makes sense.

The last toilet bowl to tank bolt I replaced was rusted in place. I cannot really remember the details but I think I used a Dremel grinder to sneak up there and cut the nut off. It makes a difficult job a moderate job. Or did I split the nut with bolt cutters…cannot recall. I do remember that it wasn’t easy.

I removed a faucet a few months ago that had a brass nut under the counter top. It was corroded on. I used a Dremel with a grinding burr to cut the nut in half and break it free from the faucet threads.

Laura Ingalls
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Laura Ingalls »

I think a whole can of wd-40.

I held the bottom of the bolt with a pliers otherwise it would just spin and spin. DH cut it with a small corded saw that kinda looks like a hair trimmer (I am lacking the correct terminology).

I was so ready to call a plumber or buy a new toilet a few different times.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Couple of fixes.

My kitchen door frame rotted in the recent california rains. I guess it has been going for awhile, but it finally fell off the hinges. The Handyman who repaired if for my mom a decade ago ripped the awning off the door and never replaced it. It got soaked over and over. The house framing is made of redwood and survived. It has lasted 100 years now. But the pine lumber put in 10 years ago dry rotted away. I am no carpenter nor am I a home fixer. But I figured it wouldn't be any tougher than other stuff I've built so I decided to try to reconstruct the wood from boards I got at Home Depot. I basically built a new door frame on the hinge side of the door. Took only a couple of hours. Screwed it all together with construction screws and glue. Put the door back on the frame. Learned it's hard to hang a door so that it fits well. It works and I'll definitely do better if I try again. Pretty good for $40 of wood and a few hours. There's a board attached to the house framing, then another on top of that with the door hinge mount, then an inner board to keep the bugs out I guess, and an outer beauty trim piece.

The old handyman just sawed out the wood around the hinges and nailed some blocks of wood in. Kind of like a patch. I think this job should last a few years longer. He also took our money for a cheezy repair.

I even put a little drip cap on the wall to keep the water off the frame.

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Second, my keyless door locks stopped working on one of my Mercedes. I use these cheap electronic power lock kits from China. They have key fobs and a receiver box that costs $14. I've had pretty good luck with these things but this one has only lasted five years. The fobs usually wear out after a decade but this one had a bad receiver box. I took it apart and messed around with the pairing routine for the remotes and got it to work intermittently. I felt there was a problem with the EEPROM not being sticky enough. It forgot and stopped working. But after an hour of experimenting I realized the memory was fine. The receiver simply wasn't decoding the unlock signal and it wasn't sending the unlock pulse to the door lock motor.

Why? My guess is a weak solder joint came apart. I started by resoldering the antenna. That didn't fix it. So my theory with most of this consumer grade electronics trash is it should last a very long time if it is designed well. The code doesn't rewrite itself on these devices. If the firmware works out of the box it should always work. The chips should last years if they aren't overstressed with heat. As I said if it properly engineered it should last a very long time. Most failures I see are overheating due to naive design or vibration on weak solder joints. After a very long time relays die and capacitors dry out. Given these considerations I guessed it was a bad solder joint. This circuit is made up of a few dozen SMT joints. One could have been weak at production then failed with a little vibration in the car. So I slathered the board in liquid flux and drag soldered (done just as it's said) the entire board with my iron. Just sweep the tip of the iron blindly over all the pads and let them melt. Took one minute. And now the board works again.

Saved $14 and a piece of ewaste in the landfill.

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ETA - Argh! I went out to test it this morning and it still is intermittent. The other remote is offsite. It would have been easy to isolate it to the remotes if I had the other one. No wonder my wife said she never had this issue. It’s my key fob. I managed to clone my key fob to blank cloning remote that I have in my junk box. That one works perfectly.

The auto clone fob is a tricky device. Never leave your fobs with questionable people. Some are easily copied at the press of a button.

I opened the fob and drag soldered the little board. The only suspect solder was under there the crystal. I remelted that too. Seems to work. Stay tuned.

Hope it stays fixed. Btw the garage capacitor has stayed fixed. I guess a 70uF cap vs. a 50uF cap makes a big difference. I can only guess that the lower impedance meant less voltage spike during the start transient.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Ugh. The remote failed again and I kept taking it apart and touching up solder. It would work for a few minutes after I put it back together but if I left the key on the table a few hours it stopped opening the door. I’d take it apart, measure the batteries, 3V quiescent and 2.5V under load. Then I’d put it back together and it would work. I’d put the key on my key hook or the table and two hours later it wouldn’t work.

I tried new batteries and now it works great. DOH! Worn out batteries. My wife got home today and we tried her remote and sure enough it was also dead. Swapped out the batteries and everything works. Wow am I dumb.

I forgot to try the easy stuff first. The batteries were good enough to flash the LED on the remote. They also only sagged down from 3V to 2.5V under load. But apparently this circuit needs a fresh battery close to its nominal voltage to function. Live and learn.

Married2aSwabian
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Married2aSwabian »

Getting ready to try my hand at some bodywork on our 2010 Honda minivan. Previous owners never parked in a garage, so rust is starting to creep in on rear wheel wells. I already tackled an area on driver side rocker panel that came out well. It was mostly surface rust. The wheel wells both have areas about 4” long along the lip that is getting to the point of damaged metal (ie. Wire mesh and bondo required). I’ve read mixed reviews online as to the viability of such a repair. Even if I take it all down to bare metal and repair, prime, paint and clear coat, will rust come back?? I called one body shop yesterday and he only does collision repair - said everyone in the biz is too busy for maintenance work. I just wanted him to quote cutting out rusty area and welding in new sheet metal and I would do the rest. Unfortunately, welding is not part of my skill set.

Gilberto de Piento
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Gilberto de Piento »

Married2aSwabian wrote:
Wed May 17, 2023 7:55 am
Even if I take it all down to bare metal and repair, prime, paint and clear coat, will rust come back??
I don't have any real experience with rust repair but my impression is that it is a futile effort living where I am in the rust belt. Once you have body rust like that the underside is typically disintegrating too, especially if you continue to drive in the winter. Depends on the car though. 1968 Camaro, yes fix the rust. 1998 cavalier, let it rust until it falls apart or stops running.

Jim
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Jim »

Sclass wrote:
Mon May 01, 2023 1:34 pm
As I said if it properly engineered it should last a very long time. Most failures I see are overheating due to naive design or vibration on weak solder joints. After a very long time relays die and capacitors dry out. Given these considerations I guessed it was a bad solder joint. This circuit is made up of a few dozen SMT joints. One could have been weak at production then failed with a little vibration in the car. So I slathered the board in liquid flux and drag soldered (done just as it's said) the entire board with my iron. Just sweep the tip of the iron blindly over all the pads and let them melt. Took one minute. And now the board works again.
I wish more people were aware of how easily it is to fix so many simple electronics like this. I fixed the fob for my old car in exactly the same way you describe above. I hope it's still working for you

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

@Jim - the problem with the remote turned out to be a bad battery. The design doesn't really allow for very much sag below the 3V coin cell. That is, when the voltage sags 10% it stops working. No regulation inside. So it was an easy fix that I wasted half a day sorting out.

Okay, this week I did mower repairs. I have this 5hp Honda powered mower that started acting up last month. I mow a 3/4 acre lawn and I also use it t shred leaves and chip up small (< 1/2") branches. I would say that counts as abuse. The mower is a Snapper brand but it is kind of a Frankenmower I got at a big box store. It has a lot of Brigg And Stratton parts, Husqvarna parts and a Honda GCV160 engine. Sadly the engine is perfect but the rest of the mower is suffering from the heavy use as a mulcher. The motor started rocking on the deck when I tried to start it recently and I found out the deck had cracked.

The mower. 22" cut is good for the big lawn. 5 HP allows for good cut rate. AWD is good for my sloped property.Image

Pulling the motor I found the eyelet on the deck had simply ripped out. There's supposed to be a nice bolt hole there.
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Made a template and cut a steel patch out of an old shovel spade. I had saved it after the handle split. I've found I can use a variable speed jigsaw to cut out irregular shapes like this in a few minutes. I welded it in. Hit it with a coat of spray paint.
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Used a big fender washer off an old shock absorber to spread out the stress a bit. Just looking at this I think I need to put a few tack welds around the washer.
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I noticed this belt shroud for the rear drive was cracked up. Likely from wood shrapnel hurled during chipping sessions. I pop riveted on some sheet metal that I salvaged from an old Butane cylinder. It is starting to look pretty third world. I probably learned this trick after seeing people build roofs out of these cans. Pop rivets are great if you don't have a welder.

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I sharpened and balanced the blade. I just use a string to balance it while I grind off the heavy end. The blade adapter was also cracked but I decided to order a new one. I thought to weld it but I realized it was cracking to protect my crankshaft from breaking off when I hit roots and rocks. Waiting on Amazon for that but my mower will be back in action soon. Total cost of repair $20 including welding gas.

That's it for now.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Finishing touches. The hole kind of fragmented apart the first time I tried drilling through the repaired deck. Apparently the welds got contaminated in the area by some paint I left on the shovel head after I cut it for my patch. Looking back it might have been smarter to start with fresh metal instead of trying to reuse a discarded shovel spade. I decided to take it all apart again, clean it with a wire brush and weld the hole a bit more to reinforce it. I figure the bulk of the stress is there so it must be strong if it is going to survive.

In review, here is what my mower deck looked like before the repair. The hole totally tore out of the deck. The motor was rocking around on the remaining bolt holes.

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Welded up. Second go round.

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All back together with new blade adapter, repaired deck, repaired belt guard, sharpened and balanced blade. Total cost of the repair was about $20. Saved a $400 mower.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Fixed my shorts. I noticed my 8 yo shorts were getting frayed and ripped at the cuffs. I put them on the zig zag machine and sewed them up. Used backing sheet that can be torn away after sewing. All the stuff, backing and thread was left overs from other projects. The thread was a great deal, it is 100% polyester tent makers outdoor thread. I got 6000 yds for $8 at a surplus sale. Lifetime supply and its easier to let the machine lay down stitch after stitch of cheap miscolored thread than cut out little patches from scrap fabric.

Here is the result.

The damage. And some fresh roses from my garden to enjoy.
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Set it up on the Elna 62 with tear away embroidery backing. I bought 50 sheets of this stuff and never used it. You sew it under the fabric as a stabilizer then rip it away to leave your thread and top fabric.
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Just keep running those stitches forward and back. Thread is free.
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Seal up the edge with more stitching and tear away the extra backing. Cheap fix. Took ten minutes. Took longer to get my machine out of the box and threaded up.
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All done. :lol: :lol: :lol: Time to walk around town looking ragged!

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

on a roll here. I took a bathroom break and the flush handle I'd 3d printed a year ago failed at the threads. The weakest part. Not sure how to deal with that aside from printing from another direction. Maybe I should try that.

In the meantime I happened to have printed some extras months ago and I had them on the shelf. Rebuilt my toilet flush handle again for roughtly $0.25. Forgot exactly how many grams of plastic i used but it is a tiny amount. Less money than driving down the hill to the hardware store or have something shipped in.

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All three of my toilets use the same part. I should keep a stock of these on the shelf. I should search back and see just how much they really cost to print. Ahh yes, searched back on this thread. June 7, 2022. So it lasted a year. I'm guessing it cost me a few pennies to make. Might as well just reprint a handful and tape them to the back of my toilet tanks.

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ETA - original part documented a year ago.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Fixed my leaking carburetor on my motorcycle. The weather is getting nice and I decided to pull my motorcycle out of storage. I had refrained from riding during the pandemic because I didn't want to end up in the ER for a motorbike accident. So it has been about three years since I started it up. I turned on the fuel tap and it overflowed the carburetor and dumped fuel all over my driveway. I got it to stop by rapping on the carb lightly with a soft faced mallet. This got the inlet needle to seat. I went to the gas station and it started doing it again. I rushed home and it drained a good portion of my tank on the street back to the house.

Soooo...time to change and inlet valve. Oddly my inlet needle looked great. I bought another just because. They're only $3. Still leaked. I tried cleaning out the seat with spray and that didn't work. Then I tried a little bottle brush. No luck. I realized it was time to pull the thing to bits. This problem was there when I'd stored the machine a few years ago. I really needed to deal with it. In the past when a needle valve won't fix a flooding overflowing carburetor I'd once had to buy a new/used unit for something like $100.

I took a look inside my carb and checked out the brass seat under the microscope. It was worn. It had three divots that were likely leaking. Like my old carb that I eventually replaced, this one had a brass seat but it is really unclear how it is changed out. I think it is pressed in.

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Looking down the valve seat bore you can see the damage marks. The valve seat is leaking here. No inlet valve change will fix this. I need a new carburetor or a new seat.
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Since I fixed my last inlet leak back in 2003 by buying a salvaged carburetor I decided I should try to resurface the seat if this happened again. I coated a q-tip with Brasso brass polish and spun it with an electric drill. This made kind of a lapping tool to polish the conical seat which is made of brass. I figure Brasso should cut brass. And it did. Look at this surface after polishing a few minutes.

No more defects. Super smooth. Now the new needle valve has a smooth surface to seal to.

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And it seals. No more pool of gas under the motorcycle. I noticed there are a bunch of Keihin copycat carburetors on ebay and amazon that only cost $50 new. I guess I could have just ordered a new one but what fun is that? Also I'm not sure I want to run some Chinese replacement unit when I can refurb my OEM Keihin unit. I also kept a few dollars in my pocket...now I can buy gas. I kept the mechanic out of my pocket. I kept the old carburetor out of the landfill. Good things all around.

I likely made those dings in the seat when I cleaned the seat in the past. I think I got a little too aggressive with the brush. That brass is soft and I need to be careful with it's surface. A little scratch can cause a leak.

A good night. I'm going to go riding tomorrow.

ETA - oh shoot! I was feeling so creative coming up with this Q tip in the drill trick. I just found this video on YouTube. Same trick.

https://youtu.be/zlez_hdoWYk

ebast
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by ebast »

I bought this from a dude at a flea market who was hawking it for a Halloween costume, I think in November. I tend to believe every time a prop is reconvened back into a tool, some celestial pawl tinkles gladly out in the heavens, as well as in some basic safety standards for Halloween parties, but nevermind, here's the story to make a handle ($40 new) from hardware store parts:

A grip (douglas fir; oak would've been nice) Fortunately had one surviving grip to guide me: layout (x4), crosscut x4.
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chisel out (x4, sand/chisel to smooth corners (lathe would've been nice):
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drill a hole (drill press would've been nice). More sanding. Following a Burkean respect for tradition ("ebast is lazy... the species is wise") I copied (with a chisel) from the remaining grip the hexagonal counterbore. This seats the hex nut rather than if you were to make an admittedly-easier round counterbore with a wood bit. (very glad I did. the implication is that the nib grip can self-tighten; more on this below.)

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add a bronze flanged bearing (first plausible bitbob I found in the hardware store)
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(cut a channel in a (new better fitting) flanged bearing for hanger strap using variously a hacksaw, fret saw and file) and Bob's your uncle!

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the hafting collar is mysteriously missing more parts than when I purchased it. Moar hanger strap, a carriage bolt. If this works out, maybe I'll machine a little more solid plate here. like the original. Or I'll go mow the grass to see where I^H it disappeared.

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p.s. Maybe this is burying the lede a bit but this blade was still straight from the factory. literally. Tang has to be bent to get a blade that'll do anything like cut. Apparently they did not come pre-bent as tangs need to be set to the idiosyncratic geometry of the particular snath (pole) and user. Somewhere I also read that back in the pre-glyphosate days railways were cleared by teams of workers reaching down from handcars, in which case you might use a straight brush blade. Whatever, point being, you need a blacksmith, or a welder, or the right way to do it to heat up the shank to glowing red, and then swiftly bend the tang to the desired angle. I no longer have any of these or even a friend with oxyacetylene torch nearby so proceeded through butane (ha!), propane (eh..), to map-pro (now we're cooking with gas!, kind of) torches where in ten minutes I could get a dull red--sorta--on the large shank of this blade. No photos because I was waving a torch around and trying to grab a pickle fork before the blade cooled. With long low heat, and multiple fumbling attempts, I was pretty worried at this point about damaging the temper of the blade which I tried to protect with a potato, wet rags, etc and am still not sure if I did. but to add my dimple of wisdom to the species: map-pro, a bunch of leverage (plumber's wrench), and brute force works on brush blades. I didn't quite get to my theoretical target angle but close enough to start using it and see in practice which way my target was wrong.


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A distinguishing characteristic...

Time to sharpen (I should buy a traditional curved stone ($20-30?) but I had an old King #1000 lying around. Lying around not being used due to a drawback: they wear fast. Good. Here I can shape it to a curved stone. By sharpening.)
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Now that eternal No Mow May is almost over, time to make hay.

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I believe this is a thick, hulking weed blade. Not ideal for grass but not the worst thing right now for the various wild mustard family representatives, thistles, blackberry canes, and small saplings that show up when you spend eight months intermittently reconditioning a scythe instead of mowing the damn lawn.
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Some notes. These nibs are traditionally left-hand threaded. My hardware store didn't have such carriage bolts on hand so I used right-handed. 15-20 hours of use in, I've not noticed it to loosen any more often than the existing lower left-hand threaded nib and lately not at all. Also, when designing this hack, I thought about decoupling the wooden grip from the attachment mechanism to the snath by drilling it out enough for a nut and washer to contact the bearing directly, then use a second nut to attach the grip to that. (Otherwise I had concerns about my grip surviving the degree of tightening necessary not to slip.) I'm really glad I didn't because in the first-few-hours-of-use fitting stage I must've changed nib configuration forty times. Light tightening and immediate feedback is the way. You can do this sufficiently out in the field by torquing the handles directly; no fumbling for a wrench or socket needed.

In fact, an added bonus: the combination of a right-handed and left-handed bolt balances the torque when tightening. It's a little perk, not like I'd swap out an existing left-handed thread for it, but it's satisfying. A haptic analogy: Next time you're on a date at a white tablecloth (or similarly low-frictional-coefficient) kind of place for steak dinner, hold your fork in a loose fist with your left hand and stab it into your steak in the fashion you would if your date was Neel Kashkari (acct req'd). Ask politely to borrow your date's fork which you should then lodge similarly a few inches to the right in your right hand.

Now, in the makeshift configuration I ended up with, tightening a nib without moving a hand feels roughly like this: take your two forks and twist them toward each other: try it using some force. Your steak may tear and shear off at the bottom or top given the degree of effort which may impress your date as well as those of neighboring diners. But please observe that the effort is mostly balanced and you are able to readily control it like a yoke while eliciting peals of delight or amusement from your companion.

Suppose, on the other hand, you have two left handed bolts. Now in order to tighten a nib, take both forks and, with some force, rotate both sharply counter-clockwise. The steak slides, the plate slides, the table slides...

Meanwhile, should your date ask just what it is you think you're doing, put your hand gently but resolutely over theirs and say something like "Neel, the real troubled assets... they're in our hearts-" and here you can point around you, then look deeply into your date's eye(s) to say, "I never wanted any of this. What I'd really like is to raise crops, primarily cereal-based, and god-willing, a family, so I was just testing whether the process of tightening nibs on a scythe is improved like some guy on the internet said by using a commonly available right-handed carriage bolt for a missing left-hand threaded nib."

If they stay, they're a keeper.

If they stay and laugh, it is meant to be.

If they stay and laugh and say, "Carriage bolt? Why doesn't he just make his own nib band by cold-forging some steel rod and using a left-handed die?" I want her.

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