Walking the Camino de Santiago

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Freedom_2018
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Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

Will be walking the Camino de Santiago (specifically Camino Frances..like in movie 'The Way') with my partner this Sep and Oct.

It will be about 6 weeks and 550 miles with a < 18lb backpack each. We will be staying in pilgrim hostels most nights with occasional motel for restoration of sanity.

This will be the longest we've walked, especially the day to day aspect of it. Also food will be a challenge as there will be a lot of bread and potato type food along the way and eating low carb will be a challenge to health and wallet. Cooking facilities will also be minimal, so there is that also. In preparation, I'm trying to get used to eating tinned fish...but suspect that will get old after a while.

Any advice from someone who has done similar long walk/ride with food/cooking constraints?

Also are there other such walks/trails in non shengen Europe that are conducive to winter walking? (I will be using up my 3 month shengen stay between the Camino and some other puttering in France/Spain).

Dragline
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Dragline »

I would suspend all dietary restrictions for the trip and just eat what is available, fresh and locally recommended. You will enjoy your trip more without obsessing over the food, and will burn it off walking anyway. You can get back on the low carb wagon when you are done.

Freedom_2018
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

The balance I'm trying to strike is between 'surrendering to the experience' which is essential to enjoying/experiencing it...vs trying to control my experience to suit my preferences.

Perhaps something I need to contemplate in other areas of my life as well.

Dragline
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Dragline »

I think the cost/benefit analysis almost always favors surrendering to the experience if (1) the time frame is finite and not excessively long; and (2) any actual or perceived harm or discomfort would be temporal in nature. At least that's my formula.

There's a reason people still use that old adage as a rule of thumb: "When in Rome . . ."

Freedom_2018
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

Random observations after 15 days on the Camino:

- boy is this a popular route! So many pilgrims. Should have done this a few years ago.

- No foot injuries, blisters etc..research into footwear paid off..not doing too many miles too fast is key..also not carrying much

- So many young people doing this. What do they have to reflect about? :)...or is it a sign that many young folks do not have serious career jobs so can take time off..seems like oy based on conversations with some.

- The dreaded "bed race" is a reality. Have started avoiding pilgrim hostels leading to increase in costs for hotels but worth for sanity.

- even if 24 snoring stinky people are in a small room, the already tiny window must be shut (seems like a southern European thing)..leads to interesting 'altercations' in the albergues.

- No/min tipping is easy to get used to but..

- Service in Spain sucks. So does the sense of hospitality (and not only in the hotels and restaurants catering to the Camino).

- Does anyone drink water here? Must be a nation of dehydrated people thanks to coffee and cerveza.

- No flat land in Spain..up up or down down.

- Hard/impossible to get veggies in the restaurants.

- Waking up and walking with the sunrise is quite addictive.

- Some people carry enormous backpacks and are killing their joints and back. Many bad foot injuries.

- After few days of Camino euphoria, people are back in their shell and silently pass each other...not as many "buen Camino"s

- Life in the US is pretty good and some of my lefty, europhile friends would be surprised.

- Overall Spanish food is overrated just as I think Indian, Thai and Chinese food is underrated. Would give anything for one of those three cuisines about now.

- Many Spanish have middle eastern features..probably due to 700yrs of rule by Muslims from there. Many town/village names are middle eastern sounding. Given that I find it amusing how big a deal pork is here...the overthrow by Christianity must have made pork go from zero to hero.

- Big cities are a big cities, here or at home.

- The churches and architecture are amazing.

- I hope the short shorts fashion for men does not make a resurgence in the US (as in the 70s) Seen too many disturbing visuals here:)

- I'm gaining weight on the Camino..thanks to ubiquitous white bread and potatoes. Food and sleep have been the biggest challenges.

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Ego
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Ego »

Good tips. Thanks!

Not too many people with tents? Do the towns have many grocery shops with fruits and vegetables? How are you booking the hotels? Are you staying in those with kitchens or eating out every meal?

Eureka
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Eureka »

Interesting update. So no nature and no solitude? Which is what hiking is to me.

+1 to your wondering why so many people walk the Camino.

Enjoy your trip and keep going with happy feet and little luggage.

Just read about the Turkish Lycian Way trail and thought of your requst for a non-Shengen trail to walk after the Camino. At least you will find solitude and great scenery and lots of different biotopes along the way. Maybe something to consider.

https://matadornetwork.com/trips/hiking ... ff-season/

jacob
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by jacob »

Eureka wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:48 pm
+1 to your wondering why so many people walk the Camino.
Blame Martin Sheen?

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1441912/

tommytebco
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by tommytebco »

I'm thinking of doing this. For my information, are you making hotel reservations ahead of time or walking in to the place each evening?? I have basically no Spanish. (simple phrases only, which a native "always" replies to with vocabulary I don't have<G>) How much problem is this going to be in Spain. In Mexico it was no problem.

Thanks for the report!!

bryan
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by bryan »

Freedom_2018 wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am
- boy is this a popular route! So many pilgrims. Should have done this a few years ago.
I'm not sure where you are on the route, but I've heard some parts are much more crowded than others?

My sister lives right on the route (on the hill descending into San Sebastián, ESP; Camino del Norte) and it was nice to sit on her patio drinking coffee in the morning/evening watching hikers descend/ascend, usually w/ some excitement. Buen Camino!

I suggested to my niece to sell some lemonade from the driveway..
Freedom_2018 wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am
- So many young people doing this. What do they have to reflect about? :)...or is it a sign that many young folks do not have serious career jobs so can take time off..seems like oy based on conversations with some.
How many are American vs European? Europeans get buku time off. But yeah, I could see the career thing as well (job hopping and breaks more common than in the past). I would really like to see more stats regarding FIRE for millennials; seems like I know as many "retired" (more like have a nice stash w/o kids) millennials as folks my parents' age.
Freedom_2018 wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am
- Service in Spain sucks. So does the sense of hospitality (and not only in the hotels and restaurants catering to the Camino).
From what I could tell it just meant asking or seeking out what you need more than you would be used to. No hostility or Parisian attitude. Was super useful to have a fluent Spanish speaker and culturally assimilated person (sister) with me that knew how to operate. The industry folks were very nice and happy, but that may be mostly due to my sister being popular. What I really loved, though, was that the waitstaff would leave you alone to your drinks and food and never make you feel unwelcome/hurried to leave. Meals can last for hours, if you like! I spent a couple hours snacking/drinking/reading on a tiny patio that was extremely busy/limited to kill time and ended up paying only a few euro.. You get yours money worth!
Freedom_2018 wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am
- Hard/impossible to get veggies in the restaurants.
Hmm, I think you're mostly right. Maybe leeks, beans, potato, peppers? But that's the thing.. "while in Spain, do as the Spaniards/Basque do."

While you are there (northeast Spain I mean?), check out a Vermutería/Vermuteke or cider house (sagardotegi). Can't get those in the US.
Freedom_2018 wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am
- Life in the US is pretty good and some of my lefty, europhile friends would be surprised.
Care to expand? I think I agree.. though I think they are probably right about healthcare, at least. I've seen lots of sad/pitiful shit in UK/France/Spain, but on the whole it seems that's as bad as it gets (in the US, it could be worse for some since less social safety nets).
Freedom_2018 wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:08 am
- Overall Spanish food is overrated just as I think Indian, Thai and Chinese food is underrated. Would give anything for one of those three cuisines about now.
Hard to overrate perfectly done seafood, meat, accoutrements. I do think to get the maximum experience (part of the Spanish allure is atmosphere) you need to find the right restaurants/bars. It's not like you have street food vendors that kick ass like in Asia. I guess an easy tip would be to mostly avoid cold pintxos (on display) and order from the bars hot menu.


Really enjoyed reading your experience so far! I have to assume there is some killer bicycle touring available as well.. probably better than hiking (though it is cool that villages are a day's hike apart)!

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Ego
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Ego »

Eureka wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:48 pm
Just read about the Turkish Lycian Way trail and thought of your requst for a non-Shengen trail to walk after the Camino. At least you will find solitude and great scenery and lots of different biotopes along the way. Maybe something to consider.

https://matadornetwork.com/trips/hiking ... ff-season/
We walked the Lycian Way in 2015 and enjoyed it very much. Summer can be quite hot but the shoulder seasons allow you to enjoy the beach towns without overwhelming heat. Great info at http://trekopedia.com/lycian-way-ovacik-to-hisarcandir/

Trekopedia also has downloadable info for the Camino.
http://trekopedia.com/trek-camino-de-santiago/

Freedom_2018
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

- haven't seen too many people with tents, probably because for €8/10 one can get a bed in a municipal albergue (those often have kitchens).One older guy camped near the path with a rather large tent and seemed to only wear tiny speedos and was calling out to the women and couples going by. Maybe he wanted a friend, we passed on his offer.
- If I were able to sleep in albergues...would go that route, it would be more fun and social including communal cooking/meals.
- some Camino cold bug going around, we got it too, not fun.
- booking.com etc for reserving hotels...pretty seamless..double room with shared bath in the €35-€50 range...considering that private albergues are charging €12/15 per bunk bed..not feeling so bad about spending more...but still.
-Best albergue experience was in a donativo (donation only and can't be reserved) in zabladika. Most donativos run by a religious order/nuns but the hospitaleros were really nice and displayed genuine caring in the spirit of the Camino..even gave us a private room. Other small touches as picking up and carrying packs up to our room or heating the milk out of the refrigerator for our coffee, cooking a simple three course dinner for us with beer and wine, making everyone feel at home. We were quite touched and left a good donation in the box. I so wish I can have another such donativo experience and there are quite a few along the Camino but feet swifter than ours will get there first and so I can't bank on that. If you can manage that route, I think it would be the best Camino experience. My loss.
- Albergues want you out by 7 or 8 in the morning, so a rush in the morning for bathrooms etc.
- many Koreans on the Camino. Often travel in groups. Get up at 5 am and out by 6 often waking others in the process.
-earplugs are critical in the albergues (also sleepmask), there are some power snorers in the human species and they all want to do the Camino.
- towns have grocery stores but they are closed in the morning when you are leaving and often closed for siesta when you arrive hungry and sweaty. So buy provisions the night before. Yes,fruits and some veggies available-selection depends on town size.
- we are buying groceries as often as we can..tinned sardines, chorizo, jamon, espetec, yogurt readily available, decent flan, raw peppers, zucchini and tinned olives.
- oh and every town and village has a church and they use their bells religiously (funny ha)..day and night so bring earplugs.
- many people cycling the Camino, often will blow past without a bell or a "on your left" or equivalent.

Freedom_2018
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

- in general local dress very nicely and stylishly. Lots of shirts, trousers and leather shoes. Women very elegant too. Not seen one instance of pants falling off the ass, loose grungy hoody, or PINK written on someone's sweat pant butt.
- Women and men use strong perfume. Walk into an elevator and bam or smell someone half a minute after they've passed you.
-don't be callous crossing narrow cobbled streets surrounded by high walls with nowhere to go, some BMW, Audi, Citroen or pugeot will be coming around the corner at a good speed..not much margin for error.
- very easy to get caught up in the walking speed of a group of people and then wonder a couple of hours later as to why feet are hurting...walk your own pace..harder to do than say..humans are pack animals.

Freedom_2018
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

Thank you for Lycian way info. I had read about it some time back on the married wth luggage blog or so. Will look into it in more detail when I am in the UK in November.

Freedom_2018
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Re: Walking the Camino de Santiago

Post by Freedom_2018 »

Sorry for typos and any questions not answered. Day goes fast. Currently near Burgos and hopefully over next few weeks will have more observations/better perspective.

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