Fixit Log

What skills to learn, what tools to get
ducknald_don
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by ducknald_don »

Sclass wrote:
Thu Aug 05, 2021 8:17 am
Now get that thing aligned.
Yes, if you don't you may end up paying for it in uneven or excessive tyre wear.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

I can chime in a little on that. Worst possible scenario you drive for an extended time and you toast two front tires.

I haven’t done struts in a FWD car recently. My recollection is some had elliptical holes on the bottom of the strut that adjusted camber. Caster usually required a custom plate added to the top of the shock tower and frame with some adjustment freedom. If the three holes on the shock tower mount are simple bolt holes there’s no adjustment.

Changing the strut shouldn’t change the toe much. So my naive guess is that the camber may be a little out. This won’t cause significant wear quickly as long as it isn’t really far off. You can eyeball it walking around the car once it’s on level ground and that should be good enough to get you to the alignment shop.

Toe misalignment will trash tires in short order. But I don’t think that was touched here (mostly adjusted by shortening or lengthening the tie rods). That can be checked too. I think earlier in this thread I show how to do a toe measurement using two tape measures and push pins. Depending on geometry some vehicles have coupled adjustments - that is changing camber will slightly change toe. It can be nearly impossible to independently adjust the individual settings so manufacturers give an order or adjustment.

That being said, time to get it aligned. And good job!

davtheram12
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by davtheram12 »

Went on a talk today in my DW's hometown. Decided to stop at one of the local thrift stores before heading back home. Sitting on a shelf next to a bunch of trinkets I found a Bose Wave radio model AWRC-1P. As I was fiddling with it one of the owners said to me "oh honey I don't think that thing works. I can't seem to get the CD function to work. If you want it you can have it for $5." Sold! Brought it home and after 30 seconds of research I found it was a common problem with this exact model. The spinning mechanism and laser were both getting power but it wasn't getting enough. I removed the top cover (via 3 screws and 2 clips), made the adjustments (via a 1/8 turn to a screw) ran a test and it worked! I put it all back together and it sounds amazing. The original plan was to sell it for $125 but it seems my DW wants to keep it now :lol:

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

davtheram12 wrote:
Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:19 pm
after 30 seconds of research I found it was a common problem with this exact model.
:lol: I know those. That is so cool that it was just turning up the power!

Married2aSwabian
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Married2aSwabian »

@Sclass, yes absolutely have an appointment to get it aligned. I have to travel for work (first time in 18 months!), and couldn’t get an appointment for last week, so it has to wait until the 16th. DW won’t be driving it too much before then. Should be alright? It doesn’t seem too out of alignment - ie doesn’t pull to one side.
Thanks for the info. I don’t think this Honda has any slots in the struts for camber adjustment. Will leave that to the pros when they align it.
I plan to replace rear struts also at some point in the near future. Those look easier to do on this car!

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

I think it’s alright to drive. As I said you didn’t touch the tie rods so the toe is most likely good.

Sounds like there wasn’t much adjustability in the struts. It’s done elsewhere in your suspension linkage. Or not…some economy cars only set toe.

Extreme misalignment can be eyeballed and measured with household tools. I think I did a how to at the beginning of this thread.

davtheram12
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by davtheram12 »

Found a small tv in the alleyway on my way to the post office. I was initially hesitant but decided to pick it up since it came with the remote (pretty rare for discarded TV's in my neighborhood). It was a Toshiba LCD TV/DVD combination model 15LV505. After some initial tests I found that everything worked except the DVD drive. Considering the cosmetic condition I figured it was worth trying to fix it (i.e. it was covered in a thick layer of grease but otherwise nice).

I first gave it a good wipe down with some diluted multipurpose cleaner and then removed the 8 case screws. I took a plastic rewards card and wedged it between the case plastic to separate the plastic clips from the housing. Unclipped the 3 wiring harnesses from the LCD screen to expose the DVD drive. Unclipped 2 more wiring harnesses and unscrewed 5 more screws holding the DVD drive in place. At his point, I had no idea what I was doing but figured I could at least give the DVD lense and board a thorough cleaning with some isopropyl alcohol. I figured since the outside of the TV was covered in a thick layer of grease, the lense was equally dirty. After cleaning everything I plugged in the DVD drive and it fired right up. Put everything back together and it worked! Decided to play a movie for about 30 minutes to make sure it wasn't just a fluke but everything checked out. I'll likely sell it since I don't have a need for another TV but I'm happy I saved another electronic from the landfill :)

I'm hope the next electronic I find will require a little more work. I'd like to practice my soldering skills for once :lol:

Salathor
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Salathor »

davtheram12 wrote:
Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:19 pm
Went on a talk today in my DW's hometown. Decided to stop at one of the local thrift stores before heading back home. Sitting on a shelf next to a bunch of trinkets I found a Bose Wave radio model AWRC-1P. As I was fiddling with it one of the owners said to me "oh honey I don't think that thing works. I can't seem to get the CD function to work. If you want it you can have it for $5." Sold! Brought it home and after 30 seconds of research I found it was a common problem with this exact model. The spinning mechanism and laser were both getting power but it wasn't getting enough. I removed the top cover (via 3 screws and 2 clips), made the adjustments (via a 1/8 turn to a screw) ran a test and it worked! I put it all back together and it sounds amazing. The original plan was to sell it for $125 but it seems my DW wants to keep it now :lol:
What a find!

Married2aSwabian
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Married2aSwabian »

Good morning, Fixit Log friends. So, yesterday we had the Honda in for front end alignment. When they called to tell me it was done, I was told, “The bearing plates are binding on front struts.” WTF!!! All that hard work and it’s still not right??

I had a chance to talk with the mechanic who did alignment (he’s worked at this garage since they opened in ‘92, so he knows his shit). He said that the bearing plates at top of strut mounts are very thin and don’t always rotate properly due to cheap materials (made in China). He said that this could lead to the vehicle occasionally pulling to one side or the other after a turn in that direction. So, now we will monitor this and determine if the NEW struts need to be replaced! Basically, if thrust bearings at top of strut mount aren’t doing their job, you have a compression spring also acting like a torsion spring until it breaks loose again with a slight clunk!

Here is what our friends at KYB have to say on their site:

https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/fa ... s-are-new/

Of course - let’s blame everyone but the manufacturer for poor quality. :lol:
The area where struts mount was clean and rust-free. I even wiped it clean with a rag - no issue there.

Here are the struts I bought from Partsgeek:

https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?ssq=2007+ ... &brand=KYB

Anyone have experience with these guys? I will definitely call and talk with them about it today. They have to stand behind parts they sell. Assembled in USA does not equal Made in USA.

Since the install, I have noticed twice a slight clunking noise coming from one strut or the other while turning the wheel hard right or left while backing out, so it makes sense. Driving the 8 miles home yesterday, alignment seemed very good and steady, including after turns.

I look forward to your feedback!

Sincerely,

Frustrated Neophyte Mechanic

SavingWithBabies
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by SavingWithBabies »

@M2S I haven't bought from them (I usually go with RockAuto.com but shop carefully there to try to get quality/OEM grade parts as they have quite a range of parts). Sounds like others have had the same or similar problem as you:

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/b ... 4k.211192/

A good forum dedicated to the brand/model is really helpful for the shade tree mechanic (not sure if the above is a good one, just randomly found via Google).

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Ego
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Ego »

A few weeks ago I found a set of Bowflex adjustable dumbbells at the swap meet for $75. The seller told me one of them was broken. I bought them with the hope of repairing them and adding them to our basement gym. I figured the worse case scenario was to sell the unbroken one for +-$150 on craigslist and sell the broken one for parts.

The weight selector on one of the dumbbells is broken and does not select one plate on each side. I've been using them for my workout as is and they have worked quite well. So much so that I almost didn't bother fixing them. A while ago I sold some trashpicked DVDs on Mercari and had the funds sitting in the account so I decided to order the parts for $26.50.

This video does a good job outlining the changeover of the parts. Pretty straightforward. Will report back when the job is done.
https://youtu.be/dSvJgx4RG3k

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white belt
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by white belt »

I was test riding the bike route to the office and ran into an issue with my bike. I must have hit a bump with a loaded rear rack (milk crate pannier) that knocked my rear wheel out of true. I had to disconnect my rear brakes for the ride home and the tire was still rubbing once a rotation on the rear fender. At first I thought maybe I had just knocked the rear wheel loose so that it was mounted unevenly, but I checked that when I got home and it's definitely the rim that's wonky.

I don't have a truing stand but I think I have spoke wrenches buried in my bike tool box. I think once years ago I trued a wheel using the somewhat ghetto method of a rubber band and pen while the wheel is still mounted on the bike. I don't remember the wheel I trued at the time being this bent though (I could feel how out of whack it was on the ride home when I stopped pedaling). More to follow.
Last edited by white belt on Tue Aug 31, 2021 12:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

davtheram12
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by davtheram12 »

white belt wrote:
Mon Aug 30, 2021 9:11 pm
I was test riding the bike route to the office and ran into an issue with my bike.
I had similar issues in the past with my commuter bike. After fiddling with it I realized I broke the rear axle (on two separate occasions). Although not a common problem, it does happen. Hopefully your dilemma is easier to fix. I look forward to your update.

SavingWithBabies
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by SavingWithBabies »

@wb Another way is to take two zip ties and put them on either side and cut them to match for rough indicators. Then pluck the spokes to get a rough feel for which are too tight and which are too loose in that area. You can definitely tell by sound. Too tight will be higher pitched (and harder to pluck) and too loose will be lower pitched. Then go to work with the spoke wrench but make sure to loosen those too tight before tightening the loose ones. I think of it as the spokes holding the wheel true and ideally you want roughly same tension of spokes for each side. By that I mean one side of the wheel will have a rough tension and the other side will have a rough tension but the two sides will not necessarily (and often won't) have the same tension. My goal is to get the wheel true while not overly tensioning any spoke. My expectation is that in the area impacted, I'll have to tension a bit more than normal to pull it true. Unless I loosen up the spokes and try to bash the rim true (some crazy examples of people doing this on Youtube with taco'ed wheels -- it looks easy but I think they have way more skill than me, I'd try it but...).

I have a truing stand but doing it on the bike, assuming you can get comfortable, isn't bad at all in my book.

My apologies if you already know all this. I miss my ~18 miles round trip ride to the office when I lived in Chicago. Not so much the traffic but I do miss the long daily ride. I somehow find it easier to ride regularly when it's for a purpose/task than for pure exercise (somehow, I have to figure out how to trick my mind -- I know it's the same schedule every day kind of thing which plays a big part so I should take that clue and try to do that). Obviously, I need to change my life so that part of my system is the need to ride long distances daily :).

Married2aSwabian
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Married2aSwabian »

Here’s a good fixit example … and it paid $700 / hr!

We have a long asphalt driveway that we share with one neighbor. It’s pretty old and in just fair shape. We had a local blacktop sealing company come to quote seal coating it and repairing some potholes. He was very competitive on the seal coating - I couldn’t do it myself for that price, if I bought everything at Menards or Lowes. Fixing the potholes was another story. At the end of the drive where it transitions to the road, there is a strip of asphalt that’s about 2’ x 15’ that has a pothole in the center of it and some gaps at transition to the road. They quoted $1500 to fix it! I guess they’d take it all out and replace entirely, but that’s nearly double the price I expected.

I went to the local big box store and bought ten bags of cold patch pothole repair (Bullcrete) for a hundred bucks. DW and neighbor lady helped me scrape and sweep everything out. Then we put the cold patch product down and made sort of a very low “speed bump” out of it over the entire surface. I used a tamper and pounded the whole thing down several times.

Voila! We saved $1400 and it took a grand total of two hours. ;) We’ll see how well it holds up, but with a little maintenence, I think it will stay put for many years. It looks like a pro did it, if I do say so myself. ;D

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

Hey thanks for the tips on wheel truing. I think there is some in my future.

I was digging around in my mom’s garage over the weekend and I dug through three bikes. A couple of English ten speeds. Probably worn something to a crazy collector.

And, my old BMX bike from the early 80s. Apparently the old stuff has gained popularity after Stranger Things. I saw wheels like mine Araya + Shimano freewheel going for a $200. But the rim is a little warped. As a kid I didn’t know how to deal with it but later on I straightened out much worse on road bikes and motorcycles. Zip ties, yes. I was wondering if I’d have to cobble together a truing stand.

white belt
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by white belt »

Thanks for the tips everyone.

After 2 sessions, I was able to get the wheel mostly true. There is still a slight wobble, but it is much less severe and no longer rubs on any parts. I just flipped the bike over on my porch and eyeballed the brake pads for the truing (it was that bent initially), so at some point I may do some work on it with the ziptie method to get it more precise. But for now it will function as a commuter bike again and I don't have the patience for anymore truing at the moment.

Gilberto de Piento
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Gilberto de Piento »

FWIW disc brake bikes are much more able to keep operating with an out of true wheel. If the tire isn't rubbing anything and the wheel isn't too wobbly you can keep riding until you feel like fixing it.

I don't think Stranger Things had as much of an effect on the prices of 80s and 90s nostalgia items like BMX bikes as demographics and stylistic trends. If anything Stranger Things was designed to capitalize on those factors. The people who grew up in that era are now in their peak earning years (born in 1970 = a teen in the late 80s = currently 51 years old). 80s styles have been influential for years now. As one example, consider the dramatic rise in prices for fox body Mustangs. 20 years ago they were typically a cheap hot rod for high school kids to pound on, now they are typically a collectible garage queen for a nostalgic 45 year old who remembers them as a cool car to have in high school. In contrast, the prices for classic late 50s cars are going down, never to return. Just my thoughts, not an expert on any of these markets.

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Sclass
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Sclass »

I just brought up stranger things because a lot of the eBay auctions for vintage bmx parts had “Stranger Things” in the title. I’m not sure what is driving this market. Could be old guys revisiting their youth.

I have a friend who paid a fortune for a fully restored 56 Chevy in 2000. The guys into that stuff are dying. THe market evolved to the point where you could build a tri five from a catalog. I should really consider the sell by date on my 65 Ford pickup.

Oddly, I’m in a 1980s Mercedes club filled with young millennial guys. THey weren’t even born when the cars came out. The old guys are dying off and the cars are being picked up by a younger crowd because they’re different. The market collapsed a decade ago with the biodiesel bust. Now it has gone crazy again. I see a lot of nostalgic shows with vintage Mercedes now but that may be just because they’re available for rent. Just a guess.

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Ego
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Re: Fixit Log

Post by Ego »

Sclass wrote:
Thu Sep 02, 2021 7:32 pm
I just brought up stranger things because a lot of the eBay auctions for vintage bmx parts had “Stranger Things” in the title. I’m not sure what is driving this market. Could be old guys revisiting their youth.
Ugh. Another thing I now have to watch for....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164937411482?n ... true&rt=nc

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