Two questions:
1) ... along the axis like in a gun barrel. The obvious solution is a lathe. I get that. Are there any other ways. I'm looking for a possible neanderthal version. Using a center finder and starting with a small hole... then expanding it. Which drills are best (we're going along the grain here). Brad? Spade? Auger? ... Any way to prevent it from eventually splitting?
2) ... perpendicular to the axis (along the diameter of the cylinder). I've seen jigs, but they're expensive.
PS: I know how to do it on square stock. Transfer the point to the other side and drill halfway in from both sides. Alternatively, to find the center, connect the corners and drill through the intersection.
Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
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George the original one
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Re: Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
2. Definitely V-block. A fancy V-block will have a way to clamp the cylinder in the V to keep it from spinning.
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jacob
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Re: Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
I have a small drill press for watchmaking. Max drill size is about 2mm, so I can only drill pilot holes.
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basuragomi
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Re: Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
You've probably figured this all out by now, but for anyone else:
1) Drill press. For thin, round/symmetrical stock: Put the entire piece into the chuck, lower it and clamp it into an appropriately positioned vice. Release the chuck, insert the drill bit, drill. Perfectly centred hole.
2) Sounds like a perfect use case for 3d printing jigs.
1) Drill press. For thin, round/symmetrical stock: Put the entire piece into the chuck, lower it and clamp it into an appropriately positioned vice. Release the chuck, insert the drill bit, drill. Perfectly centred hole.
2) Sounds like a perfect use case for 3d printing jigs.
Re: Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
In regards to drilling vertical shafts into the axis of a wood block, forstner bits seems to be the best option because they are the most rigid. Other bits tend to flex as a consequence of their fluted shafts and the force required to drill into the axis of anything at any significant depth.
If the hole doesn't need to be very precise, I would go with a brad point or auger bit. You don't need a drill press. You basically build a "V" jig to hold the piece of wood (if round). You clamp your electric drill (I've used hose clamps for this) to another piece of wood so that the drill bit is level on the same plane as the wood that needs drilling; obviously the height of the bit has to be the height of the center point of the target.
For perpendicular drilling, build a wood jig that holds the electric drill at the proper angle (90 degrees?) - it's a DIY affair and the utility and precision will be in line with the effort expended on building the jig.
For $34 you can buy this which reduces the jig making efforts and or complexity: Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck.
If the hole doesn't need to be very precise, I would go with a brad point or auger bit. You don't need a drill press. You basically build a "V" jig to hold the piece of wood (if round). You clamp your electric drill (I've used hose clamps for this) to another piece of wood so that the drill bit is level on the same plane as the wood that needs drilling; obviously the height of the bit has to be the height of the center point of the target.
For perpendicular drilling, build a wood jig that holds the electric drill at the proper angle (90 degrees?) - it's a DIY affair and the utility and precision will be in line with the effort expended on building the jig.
For $34 you can buy this which reduces the jig making efforts and or complexity: Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck.
Re: Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
The eventual splitting is has several factors.
Green wood drying out. Even air dried tends to split if not sealed.
The grain/ rings. Try to having a thicker wall. Pay attention to orientation of grain.
Peck at the holes to clear the shavings to reduce binding & friction.
Green wood drying out. Even air dried tends to split if not sealed.
The grain/ rings. Try to having a thicker wall. Pay attention to orientation of grain.
Peck at the holes to clear the shavings to reduce binding & friction.
Re: Woodworking: Drilling holes in cylinders
One of the causes of wood splitting is the natural stress that develops when different parts of the wood shrink or swell at different rates. When making holes into wood, you're introducing a gap which may cause the wood to expand and contract at a different rate than the surrounding uncut wood.
And if you're inserting another piece of wood into the hole that's been drilled, and the joint results in a perpendicular grain alignment, the wood may split or the joint loosen because wood swells in parallel with the grain and even the same wood species swell at different rates because of the differing thicknesses and hidden weakness within the grain.
You can run down the rabbit hole in regards to what wood and grain should be used in specific applications. I personally prefer quarter sawn or rift sawn wood and a very tight grain for furniture and joints that needs to last. If you're trying to make a wooden handle, sometimes it's better to saw down an old bat if you need to make a handle - hickory is a tough wood and bats are made of either hickory or ash.
PS - sometimes wood is naturally in tension and cutting allows the tension to release which also causes splitting - there's nothing you can do about that beyond using mechanical aids to prevent it like wrapping the wood in metal wire to keep the tension from releasing or the use of butterfly joinery.
And if you're inserting another piece of wood into the hole that's been drilled, and the joint results in a perpendicular grain alignment, the wood may split or the joint loosen because wood swells in parallel with the grain and even the same wood species swell at different rates because of the differing thicknesses and hidden weakness within the grain.
You can run down the rabbit hole in regards to what wood and grain should be used in specific applications. I personally prefer quarter sawn or rift sawn wood and a very tight grain for furniture and joints that needs to last. If you're trying to make a wooden handle, sometimes it's better to saw down an old bat if you need to make a handle - hickory is a tough wood and bats are made of either hickory or ash.
PS - sometimes wood is naturally in tension and cutting allows the tension to release which also causes splitting - there's nothing you can do about that beyond using mechanical aids to prevent it like wrapping the wood in metal wire to keep the tension from releasing or the use of butterfly joinery.