ERE Bike Chain Degreaser

[tylerrr]

When I say both sides, I mean left and right, not up/down. The viscosity of the oil causes it to seep/suck right in between the plates.

right, so that means you'd have to go to the other side of the bike to see the other side of the chain and apply it to other side too.

[vexed87]

Presumably Jacob means between both sides of the links, which are accessible from the top.

[tylerrr]

Presumably Jacob means between both sides of the links, which are accessible from the top. http://sheldonbrown.com/images/chain-innerouter.jpg

thank you! Now I get it!! Makes total sense to do what Jacob says because then you aren't over lubing and collecting grime with the lube.

[enigmaT120]

I don't degrease my chains. I use a terry cloth rag and run the chain backwards through it many times (until the rag stops getting dirty), and call it clean enough. Then I apply new oil like Jacob said above, and run the chain around many times to make sure the oil is getting worked in. Then I use a different, cleaner rag to wipe off all the oil I can get off. I get about 3,000 miles from my 10 speed chain, maybe it would be more if I cleaned it but it's not worth any extra hassle to me. A new chain is only about 30 bucks.

[vexed87]

I don't degrease my chains. I use a terry cloth rag and run the chain backwards through it many times (until the rag stops getting dirty), and call it clean enough. Then I apply new oil like Jacob said above, and run the chain around many times to make sure the oil is getting worked in. Then I use a different, cleaner rag to wipe off all the oil I can get off. I get about 3,000 miles from my 10 speed chain, maybe it would be more if I cleaned it but it's not worth any extra hassle to me. A new chain is only about 30 bucks.

The main reason for degreasing the chain is to clean the inner area which comes into contact with the drive train components. The dust and dirt that builds up will accelerate wear on the jockey wheels, cassette and chain rings, not so much the chain itself. Replacing the whole drive train isn't quite as cheap!

[sky]

Is the 75% mineral spirits - 25% motor oil mix a cleaner or a lubricant?

[Gilberto de Piento]

I'm voting with Enigma on this one. I don't use a chemical degreaser either. I run it through a rag to remove the old grease, apply lube, run it through a clean rag so it isn't messy. If you want it out from between the rollers use a toothbrush. I think the chem degreaser removes the grease from between the pins and rollers, exactly where you don't want it removed.

I'm on the original drivetrain except for the chain on both my road bike and mtb. My commuter bike gets a new chain after every winter because the salt kills it. The rest of the drivetrain except the cassette is original on that too. I'm not sure how many miles I put on any of those bikes but it is a significant amount (rode 30 today on the commuter).

[tommytebco]

Just a side note on chain maintenance:
Some of my friends, who rode high miles, advocated this approach to chain maintenance:
1. To clean, soak in kerosene of diesel fuel. scrub off grime and grit.
2. dip in melted paraffin long enough for the chain itself to heat up to the melted temperature.
3. Remove chain from paraffin and allow to drip.
4 reassemble and ride.

exerpt from Sheldon Brown's writing
"Waxing Chains:
An alternative approach to chain lubrication is to immerse the chain in hot wax. This is a variation on the oil/solvent approach. The hot wax is of a thin enough consistency that it can theoretically penetrate into the private parts of the chain, then when it cools off, you have a nice thick lubricant in place where it can do the most good. The major advantage to this approach is that, once cooled off, the wax is not sticky, and doesn't attract dirt to the outside of the chain as readily. Downsides of the wax approach include the fact that it is a great deal of trouble, and that wax is probably not as good a lubricant as oil or grease. Wax is flammable and should be heated in a double boiler or a warm oven.