gf and I are buying some cheap (<$100) neighborhood cruisers with the expectations that we will put almost no effort into maintenance and they will be stolen and replaced sooner or later. [I am still shocked to realize that all my local transportation needs can be met this easily and cheaply - very cool! Thanks Jacob for emphasizing this point in your book and blog.]
What do you all think about tricycles? In Effective Cycling, one study cited indicated that 50% of accidents are from the cyclist simply falling over. Maybe a trike would reduce or eliminate that amount. Note that where I live it is FLAT.
Unlike the cheap bikes, we do want to get some quality accessories, on the thinking that the helmet is for safety and the other stuff will be less likely to be stolen and so be with us for a while. So, what are good, affordable helmets and locks, and where to buy them? After these, what should be our next purchases?
Thanks,
learning
basic bike and accessories
-
jacob
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15994
- Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:38 pm
- Location: USA, Zone 5b, Koppen Dfa, Elev. 620ft, Walkscore 77
- Contact:
Trikes?! Nooooooooooo!!! (Unless you have some balancing issues.)
All my "falling over" accidents have been due to stupid things like double-shifting at low speeds causing a chain drop while clipped in, typically uphill. It's like a tree coming down at 0 mph. It's not a killer, in fact I try to fall under the bike to prevent scratches (on the bike, not on me). I'd worry more about keeping up with traffic and that's not going to happen on a trike.
Kryptonite locks. However, before you go overboard and spend $100 on a New York Fuhgeddabout(SP?) that weighs 10 pounds consider what you're protecting. It seems that the rule of thumb is that the bike lock should be 1/10 of the bike value. The alternative rule is that your lock should simply look more impressive than the average lock. The aim is to discourage thieves. You can never prevent it.
Guidelines:
1) I have a cheap cable lock on my beater bike (featured on the blog). A sawzall can kill such a lock in 3 seconds flat.
2) I have a $30 kryptonite U-lock on my Mad Max touring bike. This is far from the biggest lock that they make and it's still friggin' huge and heavy.
3) I don't have a lock for my road bike. Basically, I will never leave that bike in the street out of sight.
For helmets, keep in mind that racing helmets are designed to be as light as possible while still meeting standards. IOW, an expensive helmet means you're paying extra to get the absolute minimum level of protection. In general, the more material in the helmet, the better it is. Conclusion: If safety is the issue, get the cheapest one which is still approved.
Unless dragging a flat bike home is a non-issue, get a pump, some tire irons and a spare tube. Also a patch kit to fix the flat tube when you get home, if you're not lazy.
All my "falling over" accidents have been due to stupid things like double-shifting at low speeds causing a chain drop while clipped in, typically uphill. It's like a tree coming down at 0 mph. It's not a killer, in fact I try to fall under the bike to prevent scratches (on the bike, not on me). I'd worry more about keeping up with traffic and that's not going to happen on a trike.
Kryptonite locks. However, before you go overboard and spend $100 on a New York Fuhgeddabout(SP?) that weighs 10 pounds consider what you're protecting. It seems that the rule of thumb is that the bike lock should be 1/10 of the bike value. The alternative rule is that your lock should simply look more impressive than the average lock. The aim is to discourage thieves. You can never prevent it.
Guidelines:
1) I have a cheap cable lock on my beater bike (featured on the blog). A sawzall can kill such a lock in 3 seconds flat.
2) I have a $30 kryptonite U-lock on my Mad Max touring bike. This is far from the biggest lock that they make and it's still friggin' huge and heavy.
3) I don't have a lock for my road bike. Basically, I will never leave that bike in the street out of sight.
For helmets, keep in mind that racing helmets are designed to be as light as possible while still meeting standards. IOW, an expensive helmet means you're paying extra to get the absolute minimum level of protection. In general, the more material in the helmet, the better it is. Conclusion: If safety is the issue, get the cheapest one which is still approved.
Unless dragging a flat bike home is a non-issue, get a pump, some tire irons and a spare tube. Also a patch kit to fix the flat tube when you get home, if you're not lazy.
allen wrenches (or good bike multi-tool)
some tire paddles
couple extra tubes
inner-tube repair kit
pump
fenders (or make)
headlight (if you do a lot of night riding)
blinking taillight (again night riding, I'd get this one first)
*I use a plain padlock w/ a cable like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Krypto ... 986&sr=8-3
*I don't use a helmet, yet I am still alive... My only falls are either snow, getting air (it's fun:), loose gravel and/or alcohol related. Like Jacob said, almost all are low speed and no big deal.
*Some sunglasses to keep bugs out of your eyes.
Once all that is going well, I'd start investing in some tools and a repair manual.
some tire paddles
couple extra tubes
inner-tube repair kit
pump
fenders (or make)
headlight (if you do a lot of night riding)
blinking taillight (again night riding, I'd get this one first)
*I use a plain padlock w/ a cable like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Krypto ... 986&sr=8-3
*I don't use a helmet, yet I am still alive... My only falls are either snow, getting air (it's fun:), loose gravel and/or alcohol related. Like Jacob said, almost all are low speed and no big deal.
*Some sunglasses to keep bugs out of your eyes.
Once all that is going well, I'd start investing in some tools and a repair manual.
-
jacob
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15994
- Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:38 pm
- Location: USA, Zone 5b, Koppen Dfa, Elev. 620ft, Walkscore 77
- Contact:
The first thing I'd get after JohnnyH's list is a cyclone (rotating brushes) chain cleaner, some chain oil (you could use old motor oil---I wouldn't use this on a high end bike, but I'd have no issues using it on a $100 bike), and some citrus cleaner.
Park's Big Blue Book is the best repair manual ever in my opinion. (Zinn's manuals are more detailed---too detailed for rookies) What I did was to get that book and get the tools (the book will specifically list which ones are needed) on a needed basis. I ultimately ended up with an almost exact replica of Park's intermediate level tool set save some specialized bottom bracket tools. With that set, you can service most bikes. You won't be able to build them from scratch (reaming and fazing brackets and headsets, but if I had a $500 frame that needed cutting and this only happened every five years, I'd probably pay a mechanic to do this anyway. It's the bike equivalent of brain surgery.)
Park's Big Blue Book is the best repair manual ever in my opinion. (Zinn's manuals are more detailed---too detailed for rookies) What I did was to get that book and get the tools (the book will specifically list which ones are needed) on a needed basis. I ultimately ended up with an almost exact replica of Park's intermediate level tool set save some specialized bottom bracket tools. With that set, you can service most bikes. You won't be able to build them from scratch (reaming and fazing brackets and headsets, but if I had a $500 frame that needed cutting and this only happened every five years, I'd probably pay a mechanic to do this anyway. It's the bike equivalent of brain surgery.)
Jacob - for chain lubricant, you might want to try out a mixture of 75% mineral spirits and 25% motor oil. It's better to use new oil, as it will be easier to tell when you have the chain clean.
This costs much less than any "bicycle chain" lube you can buy, but it works just as well -- because this is generally what the "wet" type lubes are made with (plus some dye and fragrance to make them seem different)
If you're cleaning and lubricating your chains as often as you should be, the savings is significant. I've used this on all of my bicycles for years. This includes a bike that cost over $8,000 new. (of course I bought it slightly used for WAY less)
Reference: http://archive.roadbikereview.com/04/0EFDEBDF.php
--------
I'll also make a case for using rags (and the lube mixture above) to clean the chain instead of buying the device with brushes that you run it through. I've used one of those and set it aside after a few times. I believe it works better to just clean the chain using the lube mixture and a rag. Drip a stream of lube on the chain while running it backwards, put on just about enough to where if you stop pedaling, the lube will drip off the cranset within a few seconds, then hold the rag around the chain and continue running it backwards. Keep doing that until when you run your finger along a few links, the residue is only slightly dirty or not at all. THen you're done and your chain is lubed. (you could also let it sit for 10 minutes while the spirits evaporate and then wipe off the excess oil again, this way it will not get dirty as fast). I think this method works just as well as the plastic thing with the brushes inside it, plus it is generally cleaner, and you don't have to own/store/locate the cleaning device. If you don't have a regular source of cloth for the rags, this might actually cost more than using the device, depending on what you are using inside the device.
----------
And a couple notes on helmets:
1 - Jacob is right that the more expensive helmets offer less protection. The benefit of them is that they are lighter and sometimes fit more comfortably. Helmet weight can contribute to neck fatigue for new riders or those with heavy helmets.
2 - For the helmet to work correctly, you must have one that fits well and is worn correctly. It should be snug on your head (no play). Wear it about as low as you can go on your forehead. And have the chin strap snug. It should not be hanging down but rather sitting against your skin. Adjust it to where it is too tight for you to comfortably open your mouth, then loosen it until you can do so. So you should be able to open your mouth all the way ok, but the strap should be up against the bottom of your chin, not hanging down. These things are important so that when you land, the helmet is in the right place and is snug on your skull.
If you crash, the way you land has a huge impact on whether you are injured. When you fall, try not to land on your head or face. Being fairly acrobatic is helpful. It's better to tuck and roll or do a somersault than to try to stop yourself with your arms.
This costs much less than any "bicycle chain" lube you can buy, but it works just as well -- because this is generally what the "wet" type lubes are made with (plus some dye and fragrance to make them seem different)
If you're cleaning and lubricating your chains as often as you should be, the savings is significant. I've used this on all of my bicycles for years. This includes a bike that cost over $8,000 new. (of course I bought it slightly used for WAY less)
Reference: http://archive.roadbikereview.com/04/0EFDEBDF.php
--------
I'll also make a case for using rags (and the lube mixture above) to clean the chain instead of buying the device with brushes that you run it through. I've used one of those and set it aside after a few times. I believe it works better to just clean the chain using the lube mixture and a rag. Drip a stream of lube on the chain while running it backwards, put on just about enough to where if you stop pedaling, the lube will drip off the cranset within a few seconds, then hold the rag around the chain and continue running it backwards. Keep doing that until when you run your finger along a few links, the residue is only slightly dirty or not at all. THen you're done and your chain is lubed. (you could also let it sit for 10 minutes while the spirits evaporate and then wipe off the excess oil again, this way it will not get dirty as fast). I think this method works just as well as the plastic thing with the brushes inside it, plus it is generally cleaner, and you don't have to own/store/locate the cleaning device. If you don't have a regular source of cloth for the rags, this might actually cost more than using the device, depending on what you are using inside the device.
----------
And a couple notes on helmets:
1 - Jacob is right that the more expensive helmets offer less protection. The benefit of them is that they are lighter and sometimes fit more comfortably. Helmet weight can contribute to neck fatigue for new riders or those with heavy helmets.
2 - For the helmet to work correctly, you must have one that fits well and is worn correctly. It should be snug on your head (no play). Wear it about as low as you can go on your forehead. And have the chin strap snug. It should not be hanging down but rather sitting against your skin. Adjust it to where it is too tight for you to comfortably open your mouth, then loosen it until you can do so. So you should be able to open your mouth all the way ok, but the strap should be up against the bottom of your chin, not hanging down. These things are important so that when you land, the helmet is in the right place and is snug on your skull.
If you crash, the way you land has a huge impact on whether you are injured. When you fall, try not to land on your head or face. Being fairly acrobatic is helpful. It's better to tuck and roll or do a somersault than to try to stop yourself with your arms.
Chain lube is a personal thing. 10 different cyclist will have 13 different opinions. Certainly the motor oil mix is fine for around town. You can also try using chainsaw oil for winter or rainy season (google for recipes).
I wouldn't want a trike either, you can't lean them into turns. If you turn a trike too fast, they can roll (I've seen it happen), especially the upright ones.
Funny that most of the accidents I've seen were from going fast. Helmets got "used" in many of these spills.
It's better to tuck and roll or do a somersault than to try to stop yourself with your arms.
It's a good plan, but much harder than it sounds. I spent hours practicing falling on a mountain bike. Still, the real thing is nothing like the practice sessions. When you are going endo over the bars at speed it's really hard to tuck and roll, especially if you're clipped in. (Still, do it if you can.)
If you're going further than walking distance, you'll probably want to practice changing a tube, if you haven't done it before. Or you could add tire liners to your list. Flats can take all the fun out of a ride and liners go a long way to stopping the common causes.
I wouldn't want a trike either, you can't lean them into turns. If you turn a trike too fast, they can roll (I've seen it happen), especially the upright ones.
Funny that most of the accidents I've seen were from going fast. Helmets got "used" in many of these spills.
It's better to tuck and roll or do a somersault than to try to stop yourself with your arms.
It's a good plan, but much harder than it sounds. I spent hours practicing falling on a mountain bike. Still, the real thing is nothing like the practice sessions. When you are going endo over the bars at speed it's really hard to tuck and roll, especially if you're clipped in. (Still, do it if you can.)
If you're going further than walking distance, you'll probably want to practice changing a tube, if you haven't done it before. Or you could add tire liners to your list. Flats can take all the fun out of a ride and liners go a long way to stopping the common causes.