A few weeks ago I started commuting by bike. I pressed a "comfort" bike into service, and it's been working, but not very well. One problem is that the derailleurs (Shimano Altus) need constant adjustment.
Per "Effective Cycling" I will upgrade to a proper road bike. I am stumped on what level of groupset to look for. I want to pay enough that I won't want to upgrade later, but I don't want to waste money on incremental improvements that would only help for racing. Posts on cycling forums lead me to believe that the middle Shimano line fits this bill, which is presently the 105. The SRAM Apex is supposedly equivalent.
Do more experienced cyclists agree that 105/Apex is the way to go?
Bicycle groupset for daily use
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jacob
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I don't know about Apex, but I wouldn't get anything less that 105. I think after 105 (ultegra, dura ace), things just get lighter, not better = $$$ to take half a pound of the bike.
I think it's worth the money when things go "click . shift . click . shift" (105 will do that for you) rather than "click ....rattle rattle ... shift ... rattle . click . rattle shift shift (argh)".
Also consider that it is harder to adjust a triple chain ring than a double. Only get a granny gear if you have severe climbing or need to pull heavy loads. For weak legs, I'd rather want a compact. (A compact is like getting an extra low gear and losing a high gear.)
If you stick with 9 speed, you don't need special chain tools either.
I think it's worth the money when things go "click . shift . click . shift" (105 will do that for you) rather than "click ....rattle rattle ... shift ... rattle . click . rattle shift shift (argh)".
Also consider that it is harder to adjust a triple chain ring than a double. Only get a granny gear if you have severe climbing or need to pull heavy loads. For weak legs, I'd rather want a compact. (A compact is like getting an extra low gear and losing a high gear.)
If you stick with 9 speed, you don't need special chain tools either.
I have a touring bike with a triple chainring, 9 speed cassette, and Tiagra (1 step below 105) shifters and front derailleur and deore XT rear derailleur.
Overall I am pretty happy and it does everything I need, with the occasional hiccup. Getting to the largest chainring requires holding the shift lever down an extra second before the chain shifts. The bike would shift up or down on the cassette for about a week, but that seemed to have ironed itself out. I might decide to upgrade the groupset just to see if there is a difference in performance, but for getting around on the weekends and for casual c class group rides its more than sufficient.
Overall I am pretty happy and it does everything I need, with the occasional hiccup. Getting to the largest chainring requires holding the shift lever down an extra second before the chain shifts. The bike would shift up or down on the cassette for about a week, but that seemed to have ironed itself out. I might decide to upgrade the groupset just to see if there is a difference in performance, but for getting around on the weekends and for casual c class group rides its more than sufficient.
I have a ~20 year old bike with Shimano 600. It eventually became the ultegra line. If you buy used this is a good one to look for. I have a seven speed with a double chainring. It took me a while to get used to the downtube shifters on the bike, but now it's second nature. The only problems I ever had shifting were due to a worn out cassette and I've ridden this bike almost daily for 3 years now.
My first road bike was a cheap-o with Shimano Sora and a triple chainring. It was a constant pain trying to get it to shift. I still blame that bike for not shifting at a critical moment and losing me an alleycat. >:(
My first road bike was a cheap-o with Shimano Sora and a triple chainring. It was a constant pain trying to get it to shift. I still blame that bike for not shifting at a critical moment and losing me an alleycat. >:(
Thanks, guys.
@Jon: Tiagra is probably adequate, and I see that group on a lot of respectable bikes, but if I can I'd like to upgrade to the point where I won't ever be tempted to upgrade. 105 or better seems to fit that bill.
@Jacob: Yeah, I don't want a triple chainring, double is OK and single would be best. A single speed is a good default choice but I have several hills to contend with, and I am willing to pay the complexity cost to get a few gears.
@S: Thanks. Shimano seems to have changed their naming system several times, but the old names seem to correspond directly to new ones.
Now I'm suffering from analysis paralysis. The best bang for the buck seems to be on used higher-end aluminum bikes from the 1990s. Or I could also get a lower-end bike and a used high-end groupset off eBay and combine. Or, build an entire bike around a modern steel frame (Surly, Salsa, Soma). If I go that route I could run a single chainring to an internal gear hub, which might be the perfect compromise. Part of me wants a Rohloff, but that's probably excessive...gah.
@Jon: Tiagra is probably adequate, and I see that group on a lot of respectable bikes, but if I can I'd like to upgrade to the point where I won't ever be tempted to upgrade. 105 or better seems to fit that bill.
@Jacob: Yeah, I don't want a triple chainring, double is OK and single would be best. A single speed is a good default choice but I have several hills to contend with, and I am willing to pay the complexity cost to get a few gears.
@S: Thanks. Shimano seems to have changed their naming system several times, but the old names seem to correspond directly to new ones.
Now I'm suffering from analysis paralysis. The best bang for the buck seems to be on used higher-end aluminum bikes from the 1990s. Or I could also get a lower-end bike and a used high-end groupset off eBay and combine. Or, build an entire bike around a modern steel frame (Surly, Salsa, Soma). If I go that route I could run a single chainring to an internal gear hub, which might be the perfect compromise. Part of me wants a Rohloff, but that's probably excessive...gah.
Well, to follow up, I camped out on eBay and craigslist until I found a bike I liked. I wound up buying a 1985 Cannondale ST400, which was their "sport-touring" road bike with eyelets for fenders and racks. Coincidentally it has the exact Shimano 600 downtube shifter setup that S recommended. That was awkward at first but I am acclimating to it.
The bike was $220 shipped; I spent about $100 replacing the tires, tubes, and hoods, and $50 adding fenders and a rack. The bike rides great, and the high-end components are a pleasure to work on, even at 26 years old.
Incidentally, bike retailers charge about 5 times more for bolts than hardware stores like McMaster-Carr do.
Thanks again for all the input.
The bike was $220 shipped; I spent about $100 replacing the tires, tubes, and hoods, and $50 adding fenders and a rack. The bike rides great, and the high-end components are a pleasure to work on, even at 26 years old.
Incidentally, bike retailers charge about 5 times more for bolts than hardware stores like McMaster-Carr do.
Thanks again for all the input.
I think you are all taking this way too seriously. It depends of course on how long your commute is, but if it takes less than an hour it really isn't that import what kind of bicycle you use. The basic construction of most bicycles is the same, and this is what makes them so effective, not the fancy gears or shape. I have lived most of my live in the bicycle capital of the world, Amsterdam, and people there drive around on whatever functioning bicycle they can find. Most of them are old rusty bicycles with only one gear (This is a common sight: http://www.istudyathes.com/wp-content/u ... ietsen.jpg), and it is very rare to see any racing or all-terrain bicycles. It does of course also depend on whether there are a lot of hills were you live, but most cities are relatively flat.
I used to commute to and from school about 40 minutes each way, and i never really had any problems with my old three gear bicycle. Another advantage is that your bicycle isn't as attractive to thieves when it looks old (about a million bicycles are stolen each year in the Netherlands...)
I used to commute to and from school about 40 minutes each way, and i never really had any problems with my old three gear bicycle. Another advantage is that your bicycle isn't as attractive to thieves when it looks old (about a million bicycles are stolen each year in the Netherlands...)