As I mentioned in my Journal, I've (perhaps prematurely) pulled the trigger and I'm in ERE earlier than I planned (yes, which probably means I'll have to find another job later). Anyway.
I can't afford to drive a car anymore, so I'm getting where I need to travel by foot and bike. I was given a good road bike, but it's lacking a few nearly essential accessories.
What is an ERE approach to acquiring the following bike accessories? I don't want to drop hundreds of dollars on accessories, especially when I got the bike for free.
-Saddlebags or some other kind of cargo holder (carrying groceries while biking has been hard)
-Water bottle
-Fenders (not really needed right away, but with fall will come rain and mud)
-Headlight, taillight
Those are all I can think of right now. What else is imprescindible for using a bike as primary transportation?
Another question, it is very hot these days, and although I can handle it, I always arrive to my destinations drenched in sweat. How do you handle this? Bring a change of clothes everywhere and have a dedicated biking outfit you change into every time you bike? Personally I don't mind it, but if I don't look like I live in an air conditioned bubble 95% of the time, it's hard to "pass" as normal.
Bicycle Accessories
My son and I made panniers out of cat litter containers:
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1 ... d=1841&v=v
They work well.
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1 ... d=1841&v=v
They work well.
Good questions, and I'm eager to hear the results. I'm in the market for a bike, and I've been trawling the Bay Area craigslist (if anyone's seen a good deal in the 52cm area, let me know!). I know to look for something with braze-ons for racks, but that's about the extent of my knowledge. I have no idea how much more it will cost to get the extras (and I may have let some good deals that included racks/panniers go by not pricing in the extra cost of obtaining them).
One thing to consider is simply using a backpack. One cyclist I know says he'd rather have the weight on his back for handling or something (not sure I buy that).
One thing to consider is simply using a backpack. One cyclist I know says he'd rather have the weight on his back for handling or something (not sure I buy that).
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jacob
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Saddlebags - ebay, or a sale on nashbar. Or use a backpack, as long as it isn't too heavy.
Water bottle - $5 at a bike shop
Fenders - Make them out of old tires with the same diameter (see instructables.com). Or buy them for $20.
Lights - I have a Chinese generator set on my beater bike. That way I don't have to worry about batteries or having my lights stolen. Bought it on ebay.
Except for the saddlebags, these things are all hard to find used in the same place---you'll spend much effort and shipping money on craigslist, ebay, or freecycle getting a $5 item here and there. You can get all this new for <$100. The saddle bags and the fenders, should you choose to buy them are the most expensive.
You'll also need a pump, a spare tube, and some tire irons in case you get a flat. You might also want a lock.
When it's hot outside, I'm fairly dry while riding because the wind evaporates the sweat off. It's AFTER I arrive I get drenched.
Water bottle - $5 at a bike shop
Fenders - Make them out of old tires with the same diameter (see instructables.com). Or buy them for $20.
Lights - I have a Chinese generator set on my beater bike. That way I don't have to worry about batteries or having my lights stolen. Bought it on ebay.
Except for the saddlebags, these things are all hard to find used in the same place---you'll spend much effort and shipping money on craigslist, ebay, or freecycle getting a $5 item here and there. You can get all this new for <$100. The saddle bags and the fenders, should you choose to buy them are the most expensive.
You'll also need a pump, a spare tube, and some tire irons in case you get a flat. You might also want a lock.
When it's hot outside, I'm fairly dry while riding because the wind evaporates the sweat off. It's AFTER I arrive I get drenched.
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BeyondtheWrap
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Being dutch I ride my bicycle everywhere! It is surprising how much one can fit on a bike:
- backpack on your back, containing light weight groceries.
- crate (24 beer bottles) on the back rack.
- heavy groceries for 1.5 weeks in my 33 liter panniers.
- bread for one week dangling in two bags from the handlebars.
Some people even put a rack on the front. That would increase your capacity even more, but it is hard to steer if you do this.
- backpack on your back, containing light weight groceries.
- crate (24 beer bottles) on the back rack.
- heavy groceries for 1.5 weeks in my 33 liter panniers.
- bread for one week dangling in two bags from the handlebars.
Some people even put a rack on the front. That would increase your capacity even more, but it is hard to steer if you do this.
To not get so sweaty while riding or after arriving:
- Ride slower. Take it easier so you don't get as hot
- Ride especially easy the last 5-10 minutes
- Wear less clothing (shorts, short sleeve shirt.) Taking your shirt off while riding may help, but be careful to secure it so it doesn't have a chance of getting caught between the rear wheel and seatstays
- Use a route that is flat. Going up a hill you will probably be working harder but will have less wind
- Take a cold drink along. Some people like to use insulated bottles to help keep it cold longer.
- Ride slower. Take it easier so you don't get as hot
- Ride especially easy the last 5-10 minutes
- Wear less clothing (shorts, short sleeve shirt.) Taking your shirt off while riding may help, but be careful to secure it so it doesn't have a chance of getting caught between the rear wheel and seatstays
- Use a route that is flat. Going up a hill you will probably be working harder but will have less wind
- Take a cold drink along. Some people like to use insulated bottles to help keep it cold longer.
To tackle a few of these:
Saddlebags or some other kind of cargo holder (carrying groceries while biking has been hard)
A backpack is easiest, if you can get away with it. Next might be the (once) ubiquitous milk crate bungied or zip tied to a rack. It can be fun to experiment here.
-Water bottle
As Jacob said, a cheap one is pretty much good enough. You can probably get them free if you tell your friends that theirs might have BPA in it.
-Fenders (not really needed right away, but with fall will come rain and mud)
These pretty much get destroyed for me every (cold and snowy) winter. I think next time I'm going to try a DIY approach.
-Headlight, taillight
I don't skimp on lighting. I'd like to have something like the DesignShine system, but it's a little pricey and uses nonstandard batteries. So I mounted a bright AA tactical flashlight headlight to the handlebars and use an LED taillight.
If you're riding in traffic, you might want some bright clothes.
Also remember that bikes need attention, how often depends on miles and conditions ridden. Every year my three season commuting bike needs new brake pads, a new chain, and thorough tuning. Every few seasons, it needs new tires, bearings, chainrings, cassette, and cables. Then there's tubes, chain lube, and so on. It seems neverending, but at least it's fun.
Saddlebags or some other kind of cargo holder (carrying groceries while biking has been hard)
A backpack is easiest, if you can get away with it. Next might be the (once) ubiquitous milk crate bungied or zip tied to a rack. It can be fun to experiment here.
-Water bottle
As Jacob said, a cheap one is pretty much good enough. You can probably get them free if you tell your friends that theirs might have BPA in it.
-Fenders (not really needed right away, but with fall will come rain and mud)
These pretty much get destroyed for me every (cold and snowy) winter. I think next time I'm going to try a DIY approach.
-Headlight, taillight
I don't skimp on lighting. I'd like to have something like the DesignShine system, but it's a little pricey and uses nonstandard batteries. So I mounted a bright AA tactical flashlight headlight to the handlebars and use an LED taillight.
If you're riding in traffic, you might want some bright clothes.
Also remember that bikes need attention, how often depends on miles and conditions ridden. Every year my three season commuting bike needs new brake pads, a new chain, and thorough tuning. Every few seasons, it needs new tires, bearings, chainrings, cassette, and cables. Then there's tubes, chain lube, and so on. It seems neverending, but at least it's fun.
I always arrive to my destinations drenched in sweat. How do you handle this? Bring a change of clothes everywhere and have a dedicated biking outfit you change into every time you bike?
I have this problem too. And yes, if I'm going any distance in warm weather I wear riding clothes and change when I get there. Of course, what you can do with clothing depends on where you are going.
I try to do the following with varying degrees of success - ride slowly and ride extra slowly 5 to 10 minutes before arriving to allow sweat to evaporate while cooling. I keep it in the small chainring to force myself not to work too hard. (OTOH, I feel like it is dangerous ride too slowly on a fast busy roadway, I want to minimize the speed difference between me and the cars.)
I still need the spare shirt and wipes.
BTW: congrats on early early retirement extreme.
dragoncar - up to a certain level, spending more money on bike parts results in longer durability. After that certain point, more money gets you lighter weight, and sometimes a bit better functionality, but no more durability. If you're looking at the Shimano range of road bike parts, for example, 105 is probably that sweet spot of high durability where spending more just makes it lighter. SRAM Rival is also similar.
Will I be considered a snob if I say that I like Ultegra vs 105? Just for reliability. Both are good, but I find Ultegra derailleurs last longer under stress. 105 is still good, but I switched to Ultegra after I kept breaking the 105s. Brifters, chains, cassettes, etc... I go to 105.
As tmiller says, these mid level components are nice, and they can be less expensive per mile if you ride a lot. For instance, the brifters are better made. The chainrings can be replaced individually. The derailleurs can be rebuilt vs replaced.
If you aren't an aggressive rider, and don't ride in bad weather, lots of things last longer.
I actually like Deore or Deore XT best, but mountain components aren't always easy to fit to road bikes.
I look for low prices, knowing what is going to wear out. Amazon is usually a pretty good. This was my budget plan:
pads: $10
chain: $30
lube: $8
clothes: $100
less frequently:
tires: $80 (cheaper if you don't need puncture proof)
chainrings: $90
cassette: $50
cables and bearings: ??? forget, but under $100 IIRC
once:
tactical flashlight was $60, might be cheaper now
led taillight was $20 or so
enloop batteries: ??? last practically forever though
There's also tools. We won't go into that.
If you ride in the snow all winter, plan on replacing the drivetrain just about every year. I use the cheapest components I can find for snow duty.
This is for commuting. Dirt riding is much tougher on bikes.
As tmiller says, these mid level components are nice, and they can be less expensive per mile if you ride a lot. For instance, the brifters are better made. The chainrings can be replaced individually. The derailleurs can be rebuilt vs replaced.
If you aren't an aggressive rider, and don't ride in bad weather, lots of things last longer.
I actually like Deore or Deore XT best, but mountain components aren't always easy to fit to road bikes.
I look for low prices, knowing what is going to wear out. Amazon is usually a pretty good. This was my budget plan:
pads: $10
chain: $30
lube: $8
clothes: $100
less frequently:
tires: $80 (cheaper if you don't need puncture proof)
chainrings: $90
cassette: $50
cables and bearings: ??? forget, but under $100 IIRC
once:
tactical flashlight was $60, might be cheaper now
led taillight was $20 or so
enloop batteries: ??? last practically forever though
There's also tools. We won't go into that.
If you ride in the snow all winter, plan on replacing the drivetrain just about every year. I use the cheapest components I can find for snow duty.
This is for commuting. Dirt riding is much tougher on bikes.
$10 a month may cover things well Dragoncar. Sometimes you might have bad luck with tires or something that will blow that rate.
I don't think this has been mentioned - for chain lube, don't buy the commercial stuff. Just buy a gallon of mineral spirits and a quart of motor oil and mix 75% spirits with 25% oil to make chain lube. This costs about 1/20 or less than you'd pay for the commericial lube. You might want to buy one bottle of lube from the store just to get the bottle for application, unless you already have something that will work well for it. Use that for cleaning/lubricating your chain frequently. (A clean and lubricated chain will last longer and your shifting will work better)
An option for a cheaper drivetrain and maintenance is to use a singlespeed. It's cheaper to setup and maintain since you don't need deraillers, shifters, or shift cables. The chain might last longer since its always straight.
The downside of a singlespeed is that if you ride up significant hills, you will need to use a very short gear, so your top speed will be limited. A rear flat is also more of a PITA since you need to retension the chain, and you have to carry an additional tool for removing the wheel since you shouldn't use a quick release skewer.
There's not really any reason to use a fixed-gear cog instead of a freewheel (singlespeed). Fixed is more popular right now, but not for any good reason. Sure, you can brake some with your legs. so you would put less wear on your brake pads (saving you maybe $3 per year), but leg braking doesn't work very well, and you still need real brakes to stop quickly. Also, a fixed gear requires you to turn slower since you have to avoid hitting the pedal on the ground.
I don't think this has been mentioned - for chain lube, don't buy the commercial stuff. Just buy a gallon of mineral spirits and a quart of motor oil and mix 75% spirits with 25% oil to make chain lube. This costs about 1/20 or less than you'd pay for the commericial lube. You might want to buy one bottle of lube from the store just to get the bottle for application, unless you already have something that will work well for it. Use that for cleaning/lubricating your chain frequently. (A clean and lubricated chain will last longer and your shifting will work better)
An option for a cheaper drivetrain and maintenance is to use a singlespeed. It's cheaper to setup and maintain since you don't need deraillers, shifters, or shift cables. The chain might last longer since its always straight.
The downside of a singlespeed is that if you ride up significant hills, you will need to use a very short gear, so your top speed will be limited. A rear flat is also more of a PITA since you need to retension the chain, and you have to carry an additional tool for removing the wheel since you shouldn't use a quick release skewer.
There's not really any reason to use a fixed-gear cog instead of a freewheel (singlespeed). Fixed is more popular right now, but not for any good reason. Sure, you can brake some with your legs. so you would put less wear on your brake pads (saving you maybe $3 per year), but leg braking doesn't work very well, and you still need real brakes to stop quickly. Also, a fixed gear requires you to turn slower since you have to avoid hitting the pedal on the ground.
The first thing I would do is see if there is a bike coop or community bike shop anywhere near you. These make a huge difference for me in the cost of using a bike for transportation. Some items like waterbottles and waterbottle cages, reflectors, kickstands, tubes that need patching will be so ubiquitous that you'll probably get them for free or next to nothing. Fenders and racks are also common. I got mine for an hour of work trade at a Seattle coop. Bike coops will also keep you from needed to buy any bike tools except the essentials for roadside repair (tire levers, a multitool, perhaps) and will let you get used parts on the cheap. I only ever buy chains as used chains are usually toast.
Other cargo possibilities: milk crate on a rack, kitty little panniers, used kiddie trailer off craigslist ($50 or so). For groceries and other big stuff, I like the trailer best.
Waterbottle: I've never had a bike bottle because they all seem to make the water taste funny. Any bottle out of your recycling bin that fits in a cage (or your trailer or milk crate or backpack) works.
Lights: I can never ever find them in coops or on craigslist. Everyone must lose or destroy them. I bought mine online and use rechargeable batteries.
Other cargo possibilities: milk crate on a rack, kitty little panniers, used kiddie trailer off craigslist ($50 or so). For groceries and other big stuff, I like the trailer best.
Waterbottle: I've never had a bike bottle because they all seem to make the water taste funny. Any bottle out of your recycling bin that fits in a cage (or your trailer or milk crate or backpack) works.
Lights: I can never ever find them in coops or on craigslist. Everyone must lose or destroy them. I bought mine online and use rechargeable batteries.
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anastrophe
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:47 pm
For lighting, it really is important to have the best system you can afford. Depends on whether you need "be-seen" (where there's streetlights) or also "see" (totally dark rural roads) lights, but from strictly a traffic safety POV I just don't think most flashlights or small blinkies are bright enough. AA batteries just don't provide enough power to light you up sufficiently. Ideally, since I am with the cars, I try to have lights that are close to a car headlight as possible.
The absolute best option is a generator hub (you power the battery built into the wheel) but that's way out of most people's budgets. But I've seen people DIY with a 7-9v battery strapped to the frame in a water bottle; some knowledge of electricals is necessary but you can run some good lights with that.
The absolute best option is a generator hub (you power the battery built into the wheel) but that's way out of most people's budgets. But I've seen people DIY with a 7-9v battery strapped to the frame in a water bottle; some knowledge of electricals is necessary but you can run some good lights with that.