Good beginner bike?

[karim]

What's a good beginners bike for commuting to the train/work?

Sorry if this was asked before but couldn't find it in the search feature.

[Gilberto de Piento]

It depends on your situation. How far do you have to ride? Is it hilly or windy? Will you ride in only good conditions, or do you need to ride in the rain or snow? How much do you have to carry? How much can you spend?

For example, I have a short but hilly commute in all weather conditions and I carry a lunch. Based on this I paid about $500 for a 29er mountain bike. I installed road tires, fenders, a rack and lights. If I had a longer commute in only good weather I might use a road bike. If I there were no hills I might use a single speed to cut down on maintenance.

When I had no money I rode a heavy old dumpster-find road bike converted to single speed. It was a good commuter in the summer and very reliable. I used an junky old mountain bike if there was snow. If you have no money to spend you can make your own fenders for nothing. A free rack is probably possible too. I do like having studded tires, disc brakes and shifting though.

[vexed87]

Entry level bikes are to be avoided if this is for more than the occasional sunny day commute or you are covering significant distances. If you enjoy your cycling, you will quickly wish you had opted for mid range spec and will have potentially wasted money on low spec gear which you now need to sell or give away.

With cycling parts, top spec is pointless IMO unless you feel the need to keep up with the Joneses. Generally, mid range drivetrain sets are the previous season's top spec equipment. In other words, good enough. For someone who uses their bike every day, the very cheapest stuff is no comparison to mid range IMO and generally is of inferior build quality too to keep costs down.

Oh and avoid supermarket specials at all costs, they are cheap for a reason.

If you are mechanically minded you could pick up a used bike that suits you and fix it up, or you could buy new if you think you would get sufficient use out of it and you would prefer to maintain as you go. There are tonnes of youtube vids online and great sites like park tools to help fix any problems you encounter. If buying used there are some things to look out for, it's tricky if you are not familiar with bikes, can you rely on a friend with knoweldge of bikes to help you avoid lemons?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Buying- ... beginners/ <-- helpful

[karim]

Thanks for the info. I wanted more than just a weekend warrior type of bike. The terrain is mostly flat but some occasional hills. Distance is not more than 4-5 miles (very short commuting). Will use it mostly in all seasons except winter. I have a pretty crummy one currently and the seat is welded so I can't adjust it. Still I am a fair beginner with biking.

[Dragline]

This depends a lot on your level of fitness and whether you already know how to ride one. And how far you would be riding it regularly.

If you can resist temptation, I would actually go to a local bike shop and ask them to show you a few things and ride them around the parking lot -- BUT DO NOT BUY ONE THERE.

Then go find something similar that is used and cheap, and I mean cheap (I'd look to something free-cycled first), because your mindset should be that you do not deserve to have a bicycle that costs much until you have proven to yourself that you will use it frequently and as intended. Once you have developed the habit of using the bicycle frequently, you can trade up -- and by that time, you will probably have a much better idea of what you really want or need.

Note that we are sold on exactly the opposite of this plan. We are trained by the media and marketers to say "well, if I spend more, it will encourage me to use it more." But, as reflected by the expensive exercise equipment and gym memberships gathering dust all over the Western world, the spend-more-use-it-more mantra is complete and unadulterated bullshit that is really intended simply to separate more people from their money. Don't fall for it. Do the opposite.

[Sclass]

Good tips on beginner mid range components. I just bought a mid range mountain bike on CL for $75. It was a yeAr old and cost the PO $500. I was shocked how good the shifters and brakes were for a $500 since the last mountain bike I bought back in 1994 cost me $1000. This $75 bike blows it away.

Are mid range components really last years top drawer stuff? This would explain the hot setup on this cheap bike. I love it. I'll never buy a new bike again. It had a loose bearing in the front wheel and a wonky rear shift lever (pawl wAs slipping) but I sorted that out myself. Very jazzed with new bike.

[karim]

Then go find something similar that is used and cheap, and I mean cheap (I'd look to something free-cycled first), because your mindset should be that you do not deserve to have a bicycle that costs much until you have proven to yourself that you will use it frequently and as intended. Once you have developed the habit of using the bicycle frequently, you can trade up -- and by that time, you will probably have a much better idea of what you really want or need.

You're absolutely right about this Dragline. You have to earn the equipment (if you want an upgrade and it's reasonable). That's why I started with cheap weight at my home gym and may upgrade if and when I become much stronger. Same with the bike. Thanks for all the advice.

[JL13]

Literally anything will work. Even if it's 2 sizes too big or too small. Try to avoid a mountain bike with a suspension fork. Get something rigid. Everything else is just details.

+1 on SClass comment - today's midgrade components far exceed what was top shelf 20 years ago. Go for newer if you can, but get the cheapest used thing you can find that's roughly your size on Craigslist. Try to get something that is relatively new and was minimum $500 retail.

[jacob]

No, this year's midrange is not exactly last year's top range. The time-difference required is more like 10 years.

Gears sits on a S-curve (x is price, y is value (usability, weight)). You want to be in the middle.

[vexed87]

No, this year's midrange is not exactly last year's top range.

Opps, sorry I meant to say last generations, not last years!

E.g. Shimano's 105 and high spec tech just trickled down to the revamped Tiagra groupset:
http://road.cc/content/news/147338-shim ... 0-groupset

[poleo]

Why should you avoid a suspension fork?

[JL13]

Because a percentage of each pedal stroke is used to compress the fork, which wastes a lot of power. And because he won't be riding over boulders and roots etc. Pavement is smooth compared to the terrain that a suspension fork is intended for.

[Gilberto de Piento]

Why should you avoid a suspension fork?

They are also heavy and sometimes need maintenance. The seals only last so long.